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Routes in Sky Top
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A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Foops T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Petey's Spare Rib T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, FFA John Stannard (1967) |
| Page Views: | 7,029 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | andrew kulmatiski on Feb 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. HEREmohonk.com/recreation/rock_… and HEREmohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Description
Foops is certainly one of the top five classics of the Gunks. This route is not named after the fraternal order of paramedics as commonly thought, but rather by John Salathe's Swiss-accent version of 'oops'.
The route climbs the obvious splitter roof about 200' left of the crevice through which the Lemon Squeeze trail passes. This is no low-profile climb: be prepared for the cops to descend on you in a helicopter and abscond with your rack... but it's worth it!
The climbing is pretty easy up to the roof, then pull through the fantastic 6'? roof. I believe I recall placing Aliens to small Camalots in the roof crack. Pull through to a nice hold above the lip and gain a well-deserved stance above the lip. Now get outta there!
The route climbs the obvious splitter roof about 200' left of the crevice through which the Lemon Squeeze trail passes. This is no low-profile climb: be prepared for the cops to descend on you in a helicopter and abscond with your rack... but it's worth it!
The climbing is pretty easy up to the roof, then pull through the fantastic 6'? roof. I believe I recall placing Aliens to small Camalots in the roof crack. Pull through to a nice hold above the lip and gain a well-deserved stance above the lip. Now get outta there!
Fort Collins, CO
A week or so before our ascent I had gotten it pretty wired out to the lip. Paul had never been on it. We were living together in Albany, attending SUNY Albany. I talked him through the crux moves over and over, making the usual hand motions. I figured I had it so wired I would lead it, and he would (hopefully) follow. Well, on the designated day, once again I got to the lip and couldn't finish. Paul went up to give it a shot. I was talking to someone and looked away. When I looked back, he was over the lip! I thought, "Oh shit! Now I have to follow it." I was totally gripped following, but I suppose I convinced myself that I really did have it wired to the lip. And I did, and the courage of a top rope enabled me to pull through onto the wall above. The 5.9 to the top felt quite hard due to the stress and exhaustion.
See photo... That's Paul belaying and me swinging, in 75. May 23, 2010
Alameda
Looking down I could hear Ivan working the moves under the roof and heard a slap and saw a puff of chalk float out, then saw the fingers inching out and onto the horizontal. A big swing of the feet, desperation in the eyes, some real struggling, and he made it.
After Ivan got to the belay, he asked me if I gave him any tension. (I didn't as I knew he would want to do it clean).
I said "No".
He said, "You bastard!". May 24, 2010