Avg: 3.8 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m)|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, FFA John Stannard (1967)|
|Page Views:||10,331 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||andrew kulmatiski on Feb 25, 2009|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
The route climbs the obvious splitter roof about 200' left of the crevice through which the Lemon Squeeze trail passes. This is no low-profile climb: be prepared for the cops to descend on you in a helicopter and abscond with your rack... but it's worth it!
The climbing is pretty easy up to the roof, then pull through the fantastic 6'? roof. I believe I recall placing Aliens to small Camalots in the roof crack. Pull through to a nice hold above the lip and gain a well-deserved stance above the lip. Now get outta there!