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Routes in Sky Top
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A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Foops T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Petey's Spare Rib T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | Henry Barber, John Stannard, & Rick Hatch - 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,836 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. HEREmohonk.com/recreation/rock_… and HEREmohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Description
Crash and Burn is yet another climb that has increased my respect for Henry Barber's boldness and commitment. This thing will have you giggling or crying, depending on how you handle fear -- before you even commit to the crux.
Begin on the far right-hand end of Sky Top, very close to where the trail from Duck Pond meets the base of the cliff, at a very obvious 50'-high pillar that is completely separate from the wall.
This pillar appears to have fallen away from the main wall, forming a large cave and roof. One must climb to the top of the pillar, and reach across over the void to the lip of the roof. The prospect of a fall while committing to this move is horrifying: your only reliable pro is well below your feet on the pillar. The problem I had with the move was that, at full extension, on my tiptoes, I could just barely touch the lip of the roof -- and as it was, I had to "fall into it" -- only to find that the jug was still an inch or two out of reach! It wasn't fun looking straight down from an almost prostrate position, trying to figure out how to gain enough momentum (while my body was completely stretched out) to either return to the pillar or reach the jug. Fortunately I did not "Crash and Burn."
Snag the jug (crux, 5.9+), do a pull up and a very high heel hook, or campus to the next jug, and continue up 70 feet or so of sustained (and relatively well-protected) 5.9 face climbing.
I believe a single 70-meter rope will get you down (rap station climber's left), but I remember seeing an intermediate rap station halfway down the wall.
Begin on the far right-hand end of Sky Top, very close to where the trail from Duck Pond meets the base of the cliff, at a very obvious 50'-high pillar that is completely separate from the wall.
This pillar appears to have fallen away from the main wall, forming a large cave and roof. One must climb to the top of the pillar, and reach across over the void to the lip of the roof. The prospect of a fall while committing to this move is horrifying: your only reliable pro is well below your feet on the pillar. The problem I had with the move was that, at full extension, on my tiptoes, I could just barely touch the lip of the roof -- and as it was, I had to "fall into it" -- only to find that the jug was still an inch or two out of reach! It wasn't fun looking straight down from an almost prostrate position, trying to figure out how to gain enough momentum (while my body was completely stretched out) to either return to the pillar or reach the jug. Fortunately I did not "Crash and Burn."
Snag the jug (crux, 5.9+), do a pull up and a very high heel hook, or campus to the next jug, and continue up 70 feet or so of sustained (and relatively well-protected) 5.9 face climbing.
I believe a single 70-meter rope will get you down (rap station climber's left), but I remember seeing an intermediate rap station halfway down the wall.
Photos
- No Photos -
logan, ut
I was encouraged to write a comment b/c some of my fondest memories are of hiking the lemonsqueeze trail, climbing strawberry yogurt with my dad, supercrack with Ken Nichols, and climbing Crash and Burn. Its a shame to lose these experiences to private property and liability concerns.
Anyway, this climb is memorable, and i'm 6'2" (its harder if you're shorter). Henry Barber had to have jumped for the FA, unbelievable. The weight of his swaying sack should have been a concern b/c your feet really swing after you cut loose off the pillar. Get out there for some civil disobedience - do it right in naked in vulgarian style - let it swing. Feb 26, 2009
New Paltz
Please do not climb at Skytop, which the Preserve has just as much right to forbid as Mr. Kulmatiski does to forbid climbing on the roof of his car or house...acts which I doubt he would see as "civil disobedience", but rather as trespassing. Mar 26, 2012
logan, ut