| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| GPS: | 41.76344, -74.15663 |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner, 1935 |
| Page Views: | 2,866 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle Lefkoff on Sep 22, 2013 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Description
Gargoyle was one of the first routes established in the Gunks by Fritz Weissner in 1935, soon after he first spotted the Mohonk Ridge. It was the first route at Skytop, and still sports several historic Weissner-era pitons.
The skill and boldness of Weissner's climbing was lightyears ahead of his peers in the US at the time. Having established hard traditional climbs on his home crags in Saxony and Austria up to 5.11, an onsight, groundup send of Gargoyle must have been cake for Fritz, but it remains an impressive line to this day.
While modern parties have done the climb as two pitches, a competent Gunks leader with a rack of long slings will find no trouble leading Gargoyle as a single pitch to the top of Skytop.
Ascend the left side of the white tower to a stance, shimmy through the imposing but easy slot above to the wild finish left of the Crack of Bizarre Delights. The route gets its name from the jutting flake near the top, which is traversed to the left with stunning exposure.



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