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Gargoyle
5.5,
Trad, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
FA: Fritz Wiessner, 1935
New York
> Gunks
> Sky Top
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb
LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Alpine Endeavors is contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. See
mohonk.com/activities/overn… and
mohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Description
Gargoyle was one of the first routes established in the Gunks by Fritz Weissner in 1935, soon after he first spotted the Mohonk Ridge. It was the first route at Skytop, and still sports several historic Weissner-era pitons.
The skill and boldness of Weissner's climbing was lightyears ahead of his peers in the US at the time. Having established hard traditional climbs on his home crags in Saxony and Austria up to 5.11, an onsight, groundup send of Gargoyle must have been cake for Fritz, but it remains an impressive line to this day.
While modern parties have done the climb as two pitches, a competent Gunks leader with a rack of long slings will find no trouble leading Gargoyle as a single pitch to the top of Skytop.
Ascend the left side of the white tower to a stance, shimmy through the imposing but easy slot above to the wild finish left of the Crack of Bizarre Delights. The route gets its name from the jutting flake near the top, which is traversed to the left with stunning exposure.
Location
On the face right of the Crevice, and right of No Exit and Overhanging Overhang, Gargoyle starts in the left facing corner of the White Tower. Gargoyle gets afternoon sun, and sports a magnificent view of the Mohonk House from its summit.
Protection
A full rack, with emphasis on 2" and larger. A full length sling on every piece of gear will insure a smooth ascent.
![Marty Molitoris of Alpine Endeavors at the top of Gargoyle. Presumably, the jutting rock behind him inspired the name.]()
[Hide Photo] Marty Molitoris of Alpine Endeavors at the top of Gargoyle. Presumably, the jutting rock behind him inspired the name.
![Enjoying Gargoyle on a fine fall afternoon, courtesy of Alpine Endeavors!]()
[Hide Photo] Enjoying Gargoyle on a fine fall afternoon, courtesy of Alpine Endeavors!
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