Avg: 3.1 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1943, Fritz Wiessner and Lorens Logan|
|Page Views:||1,667 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||eric r on Nov 26, 2014|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
The final wide crack is exposed and fun, and somewhat steep as it climbs through some shallow roofs to the topout. Beware (or aware for your second) of the traverse from the top of the first pitch into the final wide crack.
From the top, bushwhack along a faint trail up and climber's right to either walk off or to rappel near the crevice.
The top of the first pitch has bolted anchors and a decent ledge. (There is also a gear anchor available 10' straight above the bolts, with a great comfortable ledge.)