Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Waterman and Al Rubin
Page Views: 202 total · 14/month
Shared By: kyle lefkoff on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. Details

Description

TOH is among the best 5.7 pitches in the Gunks, with perfect rock, great position, and an imposing arete move at the top of the cliff to escape the big roofs.

It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.

Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.

Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.

Location

TOH is located near the eastern end of Skytop, a few feet left of the Too Steep for My Lichen area. Start in the prominent right facing corners below the imposing roofs above.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack to 4"

Photos

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