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Routes in Sky Top
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A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Foops T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krapp's Last Tape T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mohonk Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Open Cockpit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Petie's Spare Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | John Waterman and Al Rubin |
| Page Views: | 740 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | kyle lefkoff on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Alpine Endeavors is contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. See mohonk.com/activities/overn… and mohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Description
TOH is among the best 5.7 pitches in the Gunks, with perfect rock, great position, and an imposing arete move at the top of the cliff to escape the big roofs.
It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.
Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.
Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.
It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.
Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.
Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.
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