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Routes in Sky Top
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A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Foops T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Petey's Spare Rib T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | John Waterman and Al Rubin |
| Page Views: | 94 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | kyle lefkoff on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | JSH |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. HEREmohonk.com/recreation/rock_… and HEREmohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Description
TOH is among the best 5.7 pitches in the Gunks, with perfect rock, great position, and an imposing arete move at the top of the cliff to escape the big roofs.
It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.
Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.
Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.
It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.
Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.
Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.
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