Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m)|
|FA:||John Waterman and Al Rubin|
|Page Views:||740 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||kyle lefkoff on Nov 7, 2017|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
It was first climbed in 1969 by Johnny Waterman, a legendary climber of the era, who began his career climbing in the Northeast, and ended it mysteriously on the Ruth Glacier in Alaska.
Start up the right facing corner, make a well-protected move, and climb a second corner above with equally good pro. Move easily up to the roofs and climb up and left to the arete (crux). Follow the easier face around the corner to the top and the ring anchors.
Be sure and protect your second at the top with a directional.