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Rear Exposure

5.6 PG13, Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Fritz Wiessner & William Shockley, 1946
New York > Gunks > Sky Top
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. Details

Description

History: Fritz Wiessner needs no introduction. William ("Bill") Shockley, perhaps more famous in climbing circles for the FA of "Shockley's Ceiling" in the Trapps, would be awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics for the co-invention of the transistor.

P1 - Climb the "nose" of the prow into the alcove (pitons). Make an awkward and committing move out left (clearly the crux, seems harder than 5.6) then move back up and right to a belay on fixed wired nuts. 50-60 ft 5.6 (+ ?)

P2 - Climb the beautiful rock up and slightly right (passing a second fixed nuts-anchor) to the top. 5.3-5.4 100-130 ft.

Location

About 100-125 ft right of Gargoyle look for a sharp prow of rock about 20-25 ft high leading to a small "alcove" under an overhang.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down the 2nd pitch of Rear Exposure
[Hide Photo] Looking down the 2nd pitch of Rear Exposure
The prow at the start of Rear Exposure. The crux comes when traversing below the small overhang to the left and accessing the crack (partially hidden by small bush).
[Hide Photo] The prow at the start of Rear Exposure. The crux comes when traversing below the small overhang to the left and accessing the crack (partially hidden by small bush).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Phil Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
 
[Hide Comment] I gave it two stars. Would be worthy of three if the top were not so encrusted with rock tripe. Sep 27, 2019