To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 4
FA: Fritz Wiessner & William Shockley, 1946
> Sky Top
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Alpine Endeavors is contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. See mohonk.com/activities/overn… and mohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
History: Fritz Wiessner needs no introduction. William ("Bill") Shockley, perhaps more famous in climbing circles for the FA of "Shockley's Ceiling" in the Trapps, would be awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics for the co-invention of the transistor.
P1 - Climb the "nose" of the prow into the alcove (pitons). Make an awkward and committing move out left (clearly the crux, seems harder than 5.6) then move back up and right to a belay on fixed wired nuts. 50-60 ft 5.6 (+ ?)
P2 - Climb the beautiful rock up and slightly right (passing a second fixed nuts-anchor) to the top. 5.3-5.4 100-130 ft.
About 100-125 ft right of Gargoyle look for a sharp prow of rock about 20-25 ft high leading to a small "alcove" under an overhang.