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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike and Janelle Anderson, June 2015
Page Views: 248 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This is really a variation to Crocodile Tears. Start on that route, then once in the dihedral above the ledge, traverse right onto the face (past a bolt) to enter the "open book" feature. Continue up that with some very interesting face climbing to gain the slab above. A couple tricky slab moves take you to the roof, where some bold moves will take you over the lip, onto the juggy face above. Follow Crocodile Tears for the last 20 feet or so to its anchors.

Originally, the "open book" feature (which is the heart of this route) was part of "Kevin's Mega Project". That route was re-routed into a more direct line to create The Legacy, but that left this really cool open book feature un-accessible. Therefore, we decided to add this variation to open up some really cool climbing.

There are a couple possible ways to start the route, but all would require placing some gear. We hope you like it!

Location

It is on the Brown Wall right of Crocodile Tears and left of The Legacy. It begins on Crocodile Tears, then breaks right onto the face following bolts, only to rejoin Crocodile Tears for the finish over the roof.

Protection

Mostly bolts, but bring a few pieces of gear for the start and finish on Crocodile Tears (up to 3/4" cams). I placed one finger-sized cam at the top. A 70m rope is required to lower off.

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