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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 213 total, 2/month
Shared By: Stefan Doucette on Apr 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Twin cracks after the roof that lead you up the slab to the anchors. You can see that the starting dihedral was a little slimy that day, but surprisingly it had no affect on the climb. By the way, I just made up the name of this climb - I'll change it when it's officially named.

Protection

Mostly small cams and wires, with a few larger pieces for the bottom half/roof (size 3 cam at the biggest.) Anchors at top.

Photos

Moritz B.  
 
There was quite some vegetation when I got on this route today, I was on gardener duties for a while!
Anyways, bring some RPs or small nuts for the top. I didnĀ“t have them with me and had to dig deep, climbing above a 0.3 for a while. Good route, balancy. You either have a good foot or a good hold. The book gives this climb a rating of 10+. The grade is fair, but we will have to downgrade Fairytale to 5.9 then. Oct 25, 2015
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Fun climb, but next time I will bring some RPs up with me. I ran it out quite a ways. Climbing it in this style certainly adds some butt puckering. Mar 6, 2016
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11
The route is called New Vector and shares a common start and anchor with the finger crack route to its left - Fractured Fairytale. Bring RPs and small TCUs for the technical and sustained, upper, tips crack section. The ledge at the first roof has a really sharp edge, be sure & place a directional above it for seconding/toproping. Apr 15, 2008