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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Mclaughlin, Cheyney & Dyess
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description [Edit]

This is in the middle of the Brown Wall. It is thin face.

Protection [Edit]

Toprope.

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Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Has anybody ever led this line? Looks like there is gear, but then again, why not just TR? Mar 16, 2009
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
 
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
 
Yes, this line can be led. I just saw it done. To my knowledge...for the first time. Jonathan Schaffer. aka Bad Ass. Mar 23, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11
Stellar face! Kudos to those who lead it, a must do on TR for us mortals. Apr 3, 2011
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11 PG13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11 PG13
This climb is safe to go ground up and onsight. Just be fairly confident at the grade, and have a good eye for gear. Potential for big falls. Double up on placements when possible. Offset cams are nice. Apr 10, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11
This route has always looked fun. I'll have to try it next time. Shouldn't the FA be listed as Jonathan's then, since he led it first? Jun 15, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11
I got around to leading this thing ground up. It felt PG-rated with small to medium stoppers and a few offset nuts. I think there was a med-large brass offset somewhere and a larger finger-sized cam. I could see offset cams going in as well.

This was a fun lead, and I would recommend it to anyone who can lead 11 on gear. It is a step up in difficulty and commitment from Zorro, which is a step up from Reptile. The crux is probably fiddling in gear while fighting the pump.

Definitely not R-rated and as likely good as Zorro or Reptile, although it is hard to avoid the better holds on the right near the top of the route. Dec 11, 2017

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