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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Johnson
Page Views: 3,831 total, 33/month
Shared By: Glenn Schuler on Apr 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

P1 - A mix of 3 bolts and natural gear take you through a left leaning crack system to a two bolt belay stance. (.12)

P2 - Follow the wild, left arching roof system out the biggest part of the overhang above. (.13)

This route can also be led in one long pitch with a 70 meter.

Location

This route starts about 75' to the right of the Reptile Butress. Look for the striking crack system that leads to the middle of the Giant overhang.

Protection

The first pitch has three bolts before the obvious crack. You'll need to place some gear between the first and second bolts. Continue up the left leaning crack system for about 50' on natural gear to the belay stance. The second pitch is bolt protected.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.13
Great route. The bolting on this route is kind of weird, but P1 is amazing. P2 is great. Some hard slabbing to the first roof. The first roof is the hardest. I think it would be easier for someone shorter. Super scrunchy stand up move the way I tried. After that, it's basically a jug haul IF you find the right holds ;) Overall, really good! Bring some small TCUs! Apr 10, 2017
I was very impressed by this route! As soon as the Brown wall comes into view as you hike up Wasp Canyon, this is the line that stands out.

The first pitch is a great warm-up, felt maybe 11+. The second is all business, with some delicate slabbing to set up for two successive roofs.

The first roof was the standout crux for us, and we could not figure out the moves. I'd love to see someone on this, seems like a bizarre and strenuous sequence. Can't comment on the 12+/13 debate, since we didn't do the moves, but it felt hard.

Huge thanks to the equippers, FA, and everyone else who has worked to make Thunder an amazing crag. And big props to Madaleine for a proud ascent!

-Scott

Also, to clarify, you can definitely lower off the top anchors (atop P2) with a 70m. Dec 2, 2010
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Congrats, Madeleine! That is impressive. Apr 9, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Nice, Madaleine. It really is a cool looking line. Apr 6, 2010
Madaleine
Boulder, Colorado
 
Madaleine   Boulder, Colorado
 
This route is visually striking and the climbing a superb journey. Last fall, I watched my friend on it and then surprised myself by flashing it, in one pitch, afterwards. I can thank this route for a tweaked shoulder and a huge smile. I don't think this route is 5.13. 12+. Apr 6, 2010
1st pitch is as good as it gets....boulder move, roof pulling, lay backing, stemming....bring xtra small tcu's for the top.
Ive only TR'd the second pitch....very well protected with super powerful moves...105' linking both pitches Jun 7, 2009
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
Dear Mr. Burns, I do not know about the 70 meter question, sorry. To my knowledge, this route is awaiting a second ascent. Some folks have recently been on it and are returning for another go at it soon ... so...hopefully you or someone else can shed some new light on this route in the near future. Good Luck and safe climbing. Another unrepeated .12+/.13 is Wave Goodbye at the Lounge. An awesome route. Check out that one, too. Dec 18, 2008
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Could this route be done as one pitch with a 70m?

Psyched to try this next time I make it down.... Dec 16, 2008
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
The crack system on the first pitch does require gear. I've never done the climb but it looks to be about hand size. It's easily scoped from the ground so you'll be able to decide sizing & quantity no problem. If you get on it, let us know how it goes! Sorry for the confusion. Apr 17, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I'm confused. Is this a crack or not? It's described as "trad", and mentions a striking crack system, but says the first pitch has a couple bolts and the second pitch is fully bolted. Sounds awesome, and a better description will probably make it sound even better. Apr 16, 2008