Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler & Wayne Smith
Page Views: 1,378 total · 11/month
Shared By: Glenn Schuler on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.

There is a direct start with two bolts that goes at .12c (FA Mark Anderson). It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.

Location

From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.

Protection

Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.

Photos

Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
Chocolate Thunder 5.12 Apr 21, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The direct start to Fractured Fairytale goes at ~5.12c. Beware the big flake at the 2nd bolt flexes a bit when you pull on it. I reefed pretty hard on it without any problems, but you might tell your belayer to stand to the side & wear a helmet. Excellent rock & good moves, and avoids the only poor quality section of FF. May 29, 2008
Andrew Krueger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10
Andrew Krueger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10
Definitely not PG-13. #3 protects the mantle gaining the crack, remainder of the route eats gear. Maybe the direct start is PG-13 due to the flake. Feb 20, 2015
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10
I always thought the last 20' of the route stepping off the mini-ledge at the dead tree to the top was a bit heady. Face moves to flaring finger crack with a not-so-great small cam for pro. Feb 23, 2015
Andrew Krueger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10
Andrew Krueger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10
Ha that explains a lot, Glenn. I bone-headedly stopped at the anchor for Chocolate Thunder and didn't think to continue up. Mar 8, 2015
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10
If you were using Jason's new book, I see how you would do that. I just noticed he shows FF stopping short at the Chocolate Thunder anchors. If you stop there, you'll miss out on one of the coolest parts of the route, IMO. Mar 23, 2015