Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Mike Anderson, April 2015
Page Views: 1,969 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property & COVID-19 Closure - now open Details

Description

The Spark is a face climbing testpiece on a beautiful swath of Thunder Ridge granite. The route has a much more distinct crux section than its neighbor (Game of Drones), knocking its quality rating by a star, but the climbing is still brilliant!

This was Thunder's hardest route when first climbed, a title it held for a few weeks. It was my foray into route development at Thunder and sparked an infatuation that I hope grows into an enduring love affair.

Start behind the tree, scrambling up some ledges and possibly place a cam, then fire up the faint, left-facing dihedral. Get a good shake at a ledge at the 3rd bolt, reach up and clip the fourth, then fire into the crux sequence involving some long reaches on rounded edges - be ready for some super powerful crimping!

Persist through a couple more bolts, then the angle eases on the well-featured slab which you'll follow (placing gear) the shared anchor on the top of the wall.

This was an epic to bolt on the FA as I dealt with a jammed bolt and failing battery that left me running it out great distances. I returned and added bolts later after making the FFA.

Location

Located on the Brown Wall directly behind the large scorched ponderosa, this is listed in the Haas guide as "11. Unbolted Project". The route joins the Schmausser Traverse on the featured slab and shares its anchor.

Protection

About 7-8 bolts, then a few pieces of gear to protect the 5.6 slab to the anchor.

Photos