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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Anderson, April 2015
Page Views: 635 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

The Spark is a face climbing testpiece on a beautiful swath of Thunder Ridge granite. The route has a much more distinct crux section than its neighbor (Game of Drones), knocking its quality rating by a star, but the climbing is still brilliant!

This was Thunder's hardest route when first climbed, a title it held for a few weeks. It was my foray into route development at Thunder and sparked an infatuation that I hope grows into an enduring love affair.

Start behind the tree, scrambling up some ledges and possibly place a cam, then fire up the faint, left-facing dihedral. Get a good shake at a ledge at the 3rd bolt, reach up and clip the fourth, then fire into the crux sequence involving some long reaches on rounded edges - be ready for some super powerful crimping!

Persist through a couple more bolts, then the angle eases on the well-featured slab which you'll follow (placing gear) the shared anchor on the top of the wall.

This was an epic to bolt on the FA as I dealt with a jammed bolt and failing battery that left me running it out great distances. I returned and added bolts later after making the FFA.

Location

Located on the Brown Wall directly behind the large scorched ponderosa, this is listed in the Haas guide as "11. Unbolted Project". The route joins the Schmausser Traverse on the featured slab and shares its anchor.

Protection

About 7-8 bolts, then a few pieces of gear to protect the 5.6 slab to the anchor.
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Yeah, I can see that. It's kind of a one move wonder, so reach might knock it down. I'm psyched someone got on it! That rock is perfect! Mar 10, 2017
dameeser
denver
  5.13a
dameeser   denver
  5.13a
This is a rad route. I can see it being a lot harder for shorter people. I'm 5'9", and the way I did it felt like low 5.13. Thanks, Mike! Feb 21, 2017