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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Anderson, May 3rd, 2015
Page Views: 1,239 total, 44/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

The Legacy takes a commanding line straight through the proudest wall at Thunder Ridge. The climbing is varied with equal parts crack, face, slab, and roof climbing, but the crux will test your face climbing acumen.

Begin up the shallow dihedral, jamming, or liebacking. Get a breather on the ledge, then enter the crux, which is gaining the face above the 1st bolt and making your way left towards a blunt prow. The first move off the ledge (getting established on the face) was the hardest for me, but taller folks may find it easier. Nevertheless, several more desperate crimping moves will be required. At the 3rd bolt, head straight up the blunt prow on more technical, continuous face climbing, eventually reaching a no-hands rest on the slab above.

Continue up the slab, making a few tenuous moves high above your bolts to reach the roof. The roof is easier than it looks, with generally juggy holds on nice chickenheads. Enjoy the view!

This should be one of the hardest routes in the South Platte and one of the best face climbs anywhere!

Location

It is on the Brown Wall between Crocodile Tears and Thunderstruck. Start up a finger-hand sized crack in a small corner, and head for the bolts. A cam or two will protect the start.

Protection

Mostly bolts (8 of them), plus a cam or two for the start. A 70m rope is required to lower off.
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks, Kevin! I was definitely inspired by you guys. More details on the send are up on my blog: rockclimberstrainingmanual.… Oct 7, 2015
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
Awesome news, Mike!!!! Congrats are definitely in order. I remember the first several times Glenn and I fell off of this, we knew it was Thunder"s hardest premier route. Then Kevin Stricker was pointed to it, and he said it was Thunder's proudest line as well. I am so glad that a local has finally completed the long awaited first ascent of this particular gem!!!
A personal thank you as well for respecting the South Platte tradition of establishing new routes at any grade in the ground up style. The Platte is an incredible playground. You make a fine statement and indeed have set in stone (literally) your own "LEGACY". Cheers, Sir. Aug 23, 2015