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Routes in The Brown Wall

Braille Trail, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bust 'er Hymen T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chocolate Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Tears T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragonfly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fractured Fairytale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Game of Drones T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gator Boy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Gay Blade S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Legacy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
May Divorce Be With You T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Vector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pat Me'groinagin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penetrators, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Tears T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sampler Plate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spark, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stegosaur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderstruck T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zorro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Anderson, April 2015
Page Views: 982 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This is a face climber's dreaming, climbing an impeccable swath of stone up Thunder's tallest wall. The climbing is continuous for the first fifty feet or so with a gradually building pump. Bring your tight shoes, strong fingers, and great footwork!

The route starts just left of the large, charred ponderosa and heads up a clean, intimidating face. The first few bolts will ease you into what becomes sustained difficult, thin face climbing for 4 bolts or so. The climbing is well-protected through the crux face climbing. After fifty feet or so, the route merges into the Schmausser Traverse at a prominent flake, clipping its last bolt, and joining it to the lip of the wall. Lower from nice long chains with fixed biners (they aren't booty, please leave them in place).

Location

On the Brown Wall, this is just to the right of The Schmausser Traverse and left of the large, burnt tree at the base of the wall.

Protection

Eight bolts, then about 3 small cams to protect the 5.6 climbing to the chains.
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Great stone with a hard, sustained crux. Felt leagues harder than The Shadow or The Penetrators. Nov 1, 2015
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
Cool, I'm glad you checked it out! I thought it might be 13a but wasn't sure. I'm glad you also found it to be high quality and hard :) Dec 9, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
The lower section is fairly easy and overbolted compared to neighboring routes. The crux appeared to have no usable holds. Felt harder than The Spark. Dec 30, 2017
Riley N  
Mike, thanks for putting this thing up. The rock and footwork required makes this thing a blast. While it's pretty sustained, there was one section (5th bolt, I think is at your chest, and you're essentially on your feet only with some microgrips overhead) that was baffling. I'm pretty good at fucked up slab, and those moves felt super improbable and seemed significantly harder than The Spark. Curious what you did through here. Regardless, these new additions are awesome. cheers Mar 4, 2018

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