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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FollowerÂ’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff constine
Page Views: 437 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chad Parker on Dec 21, 2014 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crux is just below and left of a large obvious flake about half way up. Don't brake off the delicate flake. New bolts and anchor as of 2014 safe and fun again.

Location

This route is the first route to the right of the bottom of the ramp in the middle of VD Wall. Also to the right of the arch and Followers Folly. Start below the first bolt located below a large ledge. 3 raps. to the ground with a 60m rope, 2 raps with a 70m, or walk to the right down the gully behind the wall.

Protection

Quick draws and at least 6 runners to prevent rope drag.
8 or 9 brand new bolts (Dec. 2014) 2 bolt hanger also new. 2nd pitch 3 or 4 bolts to a bolted hanger.

The first pitch is 115' so a 60m rope will not make it to the ground you must down climb 20 feet or use a 70m rope to reach the ground, I rebolted it a few months ago.. second pitch is 40' long. has all new bolts as well. All new anchors.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Hey Jeff...thanks for the work of rebolting Requiem. Jul 23, 2015
Ethan Bridwell 1
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell 1   littlerock CA
lots of runners one one like every bolt on the first pitch still such a fun wondering route Apr 20, 2015
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
Long zig zagging first pitch. To avoid serious rope drag bring long runners, a lot of them. Almost impossible with too much rope drag. The last bolt on the first pitch is in the chimney on the left. Put a four foot runner or double runner on the last bolt. Mar 31, 2015

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