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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,259 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a beautiful multi-pitch line on the main wall. It starts near the end of a large ramp (that angles up left over the big cave), and finishes at the high point of VD wall. However, due to lack of protection on the upper pitches and a questionable walk-off, it may be best to climb only the first pitch and rappel to descend (as we did).

P1 – Work your way up to the ramp on thin edges and smears. The second bolt has no hanger; either skip it or hang a wired nut from the bolt and clip the wire. Take the ramp a little to the left, then up the headwall, following the bolt line. From the last bolt, angle up and right across the aggregate to a left-leaning flake. The flake takes you up to the first belay ledge and a chain anchor. 6 bolts, 70’

P2 – Climb the headwall directly above the anchor on nice sandstone, passing 3 bolts. There may be a possibility to set a gear anchor on the ledge. 30’

P3 – Climb the unprotected face over a series of “waves” on easy sandstone to the top of VD wall. Finish up and left in a crack and set a gear anchor at the horizontal. 80’ Exit to the southeast and follow the descent given in the description for VD wall.

Location

To the right of the big cave in the center of VD wall, just left of the start of a big, left-leaning ramp.

Protection

9 bolts, bolted chain anchor, gear anchors

Photos

Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
All new bolts and new anchor as of 2015
All but the first bolt but it's not bad. May 11, 2017
alex carey
  5.8
alex carey  
  5.8
the first bolt on pitch 1 is crap, but its not necessary, probably why it wasnt replaced. The rest of pitch 1 look great. May 1, 2017