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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FollowerÂ’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,462 total · 21/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up to the alcove where Water Cracks (5.8) begins. Interesting and off-balance moves take you into the slot on the right. Climb the slot up to the top of the pinnacle on the right to find the first chain anchor for Tree Corner (5.8). This line entails a wide mix of climbing: face, on knobs and pockets, offwidth, stemming and lieback. This route is a little dirty and will result in sand and small rocks falling on your belayer. Slot Machine is easy for the grade, perhaps 5.7. It is well-enough bolted but you can place a couple #5 Camelots in the run-out sections, maybe even a #4. Rappel to descend or continue up Tree Corner.

Location

At the left end of VD wall, in an alcove to the right of the short slab.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted chain anchor

Photos

Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I used a BD #4 and #3 at the top inbetween the last bolt and the anchors. I also did a wierd move where I twisted around and had my whole left side in the slot and facing away from the wall doing some chimney/off width moves. Jun 26, 2011
Daniel Wade
Oakland, CA.
Daniel Wade   Oakland, CA.
Yeah I climbed it mostly like an offwidth/chimney on lead. Perhaps I was too nervous to commit to the lieback. My girlfriend followed it much more gracefully as a lieback. Also used a #4 between the last bolt and the anchor. Jul 17, 2012
Also didn't want to commit to the lieback, especially up high. Stuck mainly with chimney/stemming technique.

The last ~30' to the anchors has only 2 bolts (bolts #5 and 6), so expect a bit of runout. I would've liked a piece in between 5 and 6, and then between 6 and the anchor. The last move of the climb is a mantel to gain the anchor ledge. If you pitched off here, you'd probably hit the ledge below at bolt #6. PG-13 rating overall, would probably be too much for a newer 5.8-5.9 leader. Jun 17, 2013
Petr
  5.6
Petr  
  5.6
This one felt pretty easy after doing the 2 slab routes on the left. Placed a #2 and #4, you wouldn't really need them if the bolts weren't sketchy!
The lieback was super positive and really the best part of the climb. Super fun.
Did the second pitch above that, which felt much harder (5.8)
But had 4 bolts (all old hangers) Mar 17, 2014
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Trad gear not necessary. Apr 14, 2015

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