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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,335 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is pretty fun. It’s a little sketchy because of the lichen and the ¼ bolts, but it feels like something in Yosemite. It has some nice spots for gear and bring some thin slings or nuts to cinch off some studs.

Start off with a tricky move and clip the first ¼ in bolt, then I put a cam in about 2 feet above that, then about 5 more feet to the next ¼ in bolt and I put a purple BD cam in right next to it and equalized them. Then 2 ¼ studs that I tied off with a thin sling. Then clip one more ¼ bolt and top out. The anchors are real bad on the route, so I traversed right and put a sling on a small bush and then finished up slot machine (1 more ¼ bolt and a spot for a BD #3 and BD #4 cam) to a solid anchor on a ledge.

Location

Up in the little mini cave just to the left of slot machine.

Protection

A few small to medium cams and nuts/thin slings to tie off studs

Photos

Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Be careful on the second pitch, one bolt to a run out. You have to sling a tree and hike around. not worth the hassle because the first part is the fun one! Dec 24, 2014
Ethan Bridwell
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell   littlerock CA
agreed the bottom is the highlight of this climb gives you a crazy feeling clipping the 1/4 bolts Apr 20, 2015
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9 PG13
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9 PG13
I stemmed pretty wide in the beginning and put in a #1 i think. Felt like a pretty scary start. Plenty safe after the first move though. Oct 11, 2016

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