Mountain Project Logo

Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,253 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is pretty fun. It’s a little sketchy because of the lichen and the ¼ bolts, but it feels like something in Yosemite. It has some nice spots for gear and bring some thin slings or nuts to cinch off some studs.

Start off with a tricky move and clip the first ¼ in bolt, then I put a cam in about 2 feet above that, then about 5 more feet to the next ¼ in bolt and I put a purple BD cam in right next to it and equalized them. Then 2 ¼ studs that I tied off with a thin sling. Then clip one more ¼ bolt and top out. The anchors are real bad on the route, so I traversed right and put a sling on a small bush and then finished up slot machine (1 more ¼ bolt and a spot for a BD #3 and BD #4 cam) to a solid anchor on a ledge.

Location

Up in the little mini cave just to the left of slot machine.

Protection

A few small to medium cams and nuts/thin slings to tie off studs
alex carey
  5.9 PG13
alex carey  
  5.9 PG13
I stemmed pretty wide in the beginning and put in a #1 i think. Felt like a pretty scary start. Plenty safe after the first move though. Oct 11, 2016
Ethan Bridwell 1
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell 1   littlerock CA
agreed the bottom is the highlight of this climb gives you a crazy feeling clipping the 1/4 bolts Apr 20, 2015
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Be careful on the second pitch, one bolt to a run out. You have to sling a tree and hike around. not worth the hassle because the first part is the fun one! Dec 24, 2014