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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FollowerÂ’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,437 total, 25/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Apr 30, 2013 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is a 2 pitch route; both pitches have new bolts and anchors and are very safe. The second pitch is about 100 feet and goes at about 5.10b, the crux is the steep section just below the large flake to an undercling then step left and up on solid knobs.

Location

Starts just to the left of "Overhanger".

Protection

bolts

Photos

alex carey
  5.10b/c
alex carey  
  5.10b/c
Jeff was right next to me on Rupert while I was climbing this and this comment section was in my mind while climbing, certainly did not feel like a 10c/d, certainly agree that after every move or two there was an easy rest. Max i'd give it a 10b/c, harder if you have never climbed outside and don't use feet. Most of my relatively beginner group got up it though. Oct 11, 2016
Ethan Bridwell 1
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell 1   littlerock CA
fun clip up i ran into some other local the first time i was doing this climb and he told me to watch for the fragile flakes that make this route so cool. i was like "yea ok thanks" but as i got to them i was amazed at how unique and hollow they where........so if your in the area visiting don't mess-up this climb Apr 20, 2015
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Be careful on the rap down or hike over the top and around. One of the anchor bolts are loose. Dec 17, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Sorry to add to the debate - but I think the guidebook comment from Jeff needs a counterpoint. First let me say that I met Jeff back in the late 80's at the PB, at the Dog Wall when it was open. So obviously Jeff has been a long-suffering and serving and much valued contributor to climbing in the area. His opinions should be heard and respected.

Guidebooks are tricky, and whether to produce a guidebook for an area has been a topic of debate which stretches back deep into the beginnings of the sport in the late 1800's. In other words the subject/controversy is not new. I think the crowds will come anyway, just by word of mouth, true perhaps not as many as with a guidebook. But one of the useful purposes of a guidebook is to set down in black and white the ethics for that particular crag, which I believe serves the rock more than performs as dis service. Especially if guys like Jeff get to either write the book, or are major contributors. Jun 2, 2014
Craig Stevens
Ventura, Ca
Craig Stevens   Ventura, Ca
The Punchbowl gets a new guy who thinks he is all the shit. This no bolting rule has been in place way before I climbed there. I bolted any time I wanted.

I am glad the place is still getting traffic.

Jeff keep up the work.

Oh BTW, called Dennis 25 years ago out of the blue to talk about PB. He first was shocked then happy to talk. Aug 1, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
"We need to keep some of these places low profile.

Save The Punch Bowl, its Beautiful and a fragile Climbing area."

The Devil's Punchbowl: It's seekrit!

Given the easy access and close proximity to a major urban center, were the Punchbowl to become a tramped-out destination area, it's safe to assume this would have occurred at some point in the last half century of route development, Jeff. There are several reasons this hasn't happened, nor is it likely to in the future. The Punchbowl has it's place in the scheme of SoCal climbing, please allow others the "privilege" of enjoying it.

"Less attention the better. get it off S Topo."

At risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, you issue this plea after providing route commentary and submitting a series photos to the area, none of which, as of this writing, have been deleted.

? May 13, 2013
Troy Mayr, The Big Guide Book Writer Has Never Climbed That Route EVER..OR EL CAP or Astroman or...
So how could he get the correct answer. only just asking someone?
Just like most guide book writers, who don't climb all the routes they list, and just go on hear say, then just publish it!! Yea you are gonna get False Info in the book.

Just like Lower Bolt Route Rating is wrong..


New Guides, I know you can't climb them all, if its a huge book with lots of areas (this is the gray area where the mis-information comes in). From word of mouth from the FA party or, later assents by weak or strong climbers. What ever..

Your gonna trust any guide book, NO WAY..
Unless The writer climbs all the routes in any given guide book there will be false info, ALSO Including (A False Image Of Greatness) perceived by the climbing public about the writer/co writers.

I never trust guide books,almost never use them.

Kinda don't like them..
Because they bring in too many people, Cars, Trash and whatever.
Which does more damage than any spray paint and glue at lets say Echo..
We need to keep some of these places low profile

Save The Punch Bowl, its Beautiful and a fragile Climbing area.

Less attention the better. get it off S Topo. May 13, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
"Would this be Mr Ball who took you around? the Brit.. "

I made a couple of outings with Dick Olsen and Dennis Clark in 83. This was my introduction to the area.

If memory serves (which it rarely does anymore), Mr. Ball and I shared our first PB experience in 86, maybe?

I would imagine a lot that hardware needs replacing. Kudos for your efforts Jeff. Maybe as you find time you can flesh-out some historical route data on the Punchbowl proper. It was my understanding that Dennis was planning a guidebook back in the day. To my knowledge it was never completed or published. May 3, 2013
Would this be Mr Ball who took you around? the Brit..

No Philosophy needs to be rebolted ASAP...I am working on it.. May 3, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
Made 7 or 8 trips to the PB back when I lived in the Pasadena area. My introduction came in 1983 when I tagged along for the FA of "Velcro."

I lead the "Lower Bolt Route" a couple of times and if I remember correctly the loose consensus was a 'c' move either at, or just above the overlap? It's been 25 years so I could be wrong about the crux locale and the grade, Jeff.

I introduced a friend to the area in the mid/late 80s who eventually established "No Philosophy" and "Rupert The Bear;" worthy routes by PB standards.

In any event, nice to see the PB getting chatted-up a bit. On short notice/short leash, it's an "ok" experience for busy Angelinos.



May 1, 2013
Rating is really 10b!!!! and its been that way for 25+ years lol!
Mr E please don't deceive the climbing public with your mis info on a classic route..It's not sustained in anyway what so ever.. Rest after every move, like no hands rests..I know, I rebolted that route..
If you think that route is rad, Stay away from, Lucifers Tooth 11c/d or Prince of Liers 11d or Rupert The Bear 11d or Arch Deamon11d/12a Or Be Rad do them ON SITE with out previewing or top roping first.

I have been climbing/putting up routes at the PB for over 25 years, done every route in the park except for the 13b in the PB proper which was bolted poorly.

PS Illegal to bolt at PB (No new routes allowed) Rangers will take your gun..only Repair bolting. At this time I am the only one allowed to do repairs. Just ask Ranger Dave Numer Johnathan Numer..My good friends..
Apr 30, 2013