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Areas in Devil's Punchbowl

North Area 0 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Point 5.11, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
South Area 10 / 21 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Elevation: 4,740 ft
GPS: 34.414, -117.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,342 total · 461/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The Devil’s Punchbowl is the hidden gem of Los Angeles County. Nestled into the northern foothills of the San Gabriel mountain range, this county park is blessed with white sandstone strata, pushed skyward by the geologic activity of the San Andreas Fault and other nearby fault lines. These soft slabs are beautiful to see and great to climb. While many do not care for slab climbing, or feel uncomfortable on sandstone, the climbing here presents a variety of style in a beautiful setting where the high desert meets the mountains. Although not a replacement for the sport climbing of the now closed Williamson area, anyone looking for a change from the routine, or needing to work on their slab technique, should give DPB a try. And soft sandstone is very easy on the fingertips! Just remember to always pull down on flakes, never outward. ;-)

The park is open from sunrise to sunset and there are no fees associated. This is a very popular spot for day hikers and nature classes. The County of Los Angeles Parks and Recreation department offers many guided hikes and other activities for visitors. Please go to devils-punchbowl.com for more information. Be sure also to check out the live snake collection in the welcome center and say hello to Ruth

Some years ago there was a move to ban climbing in the Punch Bowl. Luckily, cooler heads prevailed. But for the purpose of keeping this wonderful area open to climbing, please be very respectful of the area, obey park rules, use only proper trails, pack out everything that you bring in, and note that no new route development is allowed, and no bolting. If you find bolts in need of replacement, please contact the ASCA, and they can work with the Parks and Rec department of Los Angeles County on our behalf.

Amenities: There are several small markets in Pearblossom for basic supplies, near and on the corner of CA-138 and Longview. There are a couple restaurants nearby these markets, as well as a wider selection in the towns of Little Rock and Palmdale, not far to the west, along the CA-138.

Camping: There are two campgrounds nearby with sites for tents as well as RV’s. Both have toilets and fire pits, one has running water. Both require an Adventure Pass and according to the first link (scroll down to find the campgrounds, listed in alphabetical order), both are free. But according to the second link, South Fork charges $8/night.

Sycamore Flat Campground

South Fork Campground

Getting There

From the I-15: take the Palmdale/Silverwood Lake exit and drive west on CA-138, (or west on CA-18 if coming from the north – the CA-18 will eventually merge with the CA-138), 30.1 miles to the town of Pearblossom.

From the I-5: take the Palmdale/Lancaster exit and drive north on the CA-14 for 29.7 miles. Take exit #30 (Angeles Forest Hwy/Pearblossom Hwy) and drive 0.3 miles to Sierra Hwy. Turn left on Sierra Hwy and drive 1.2 miles to Pearblossom Hwy. Turn right and continue east for 13.2 miles to the town of Pearblossom.

From Pearblossom: turn south on Longview Rd. At the T intersection (2.2 mi) turn left onto Ft. Tejon Rd. After 0.3 miles, turn right onto Longview Rd. Continue 2.3 miles and turn left onto Tumbleweed Rd. (which turns into Devil’s Punchbowl Rd.) Drive 2.9 miles to the end of the road/parking lot. 28000 Devil's Punchbowl Rd., Pearblossom Ca. 93553

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Punchbowl

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Slot Machine
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Tree Corner
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Velcro
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Overhanger
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Joke Book
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
Reqiuem
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Lower Bolt Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Spike the Punch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Rough Draft
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Blacklisted
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 5
Rupert The Bear
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Lacking Editude
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Big Electric Cat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Diminishing Returns
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Best Seller
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slot Machine S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tree Corner S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Velcro S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Overhanger S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Joke Book N Area > Attitude Wall
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Reqiuem S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Lower Bolt Route S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Spike the Punch S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 17
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rough Draft N Area > Attitude Wall
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blacklisted N Area > Little Attitude Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rupert The Bear S Area > VD (Very Direct) Wall
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
Lacking Editude N Area > Attitude Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Big Electric Cat N Area > Gorilla Face
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Diminishing Returns N Area > Hidden Wall
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Best Seller N Area > Attitude Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Punchbowl »

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Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
Who ever replaced the second bolt on Followers Folly 5.9, why did you just leave the old bolt? Why did you try and smash it into the rock with the nut still on the bolt, Just curious, that paint job you did, it all flaked off.
If you don't know how to pull the old bolts W/out damaging the rock. You have no business rebolting Stop scaring the rock. The Ranger is going to get upset. May 18, 2013
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
Hey MaryK, I do Fund all rebolting at the Punchbowl, and other places. outta my pocket, thanks, your comment, seams like you're Ignorant. Jul 28, 2013
Jeff C, it seems (not seams) this is a case of the kettle calling the pot black. It is often said that it is better to be thought of as ignorant than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. You have removed all doubt about your ignorance. Time to call the ASCA. Aug 17, 2013
Fixius
Sherman Oaks, California
Fixius   Sherman Oaks, California
I just climbed at the Punchbowl for the first time, on Very Direct Wall. Most of the bolts are extremely old, and rusted, so I appreciate any new bolt that is put up by Jeff C. He has a lot of experience bolting routes, and has established many first ascents. He may not be the most diplomatic when it comes to posting in forums, but out on the rock, he is anything but ignorant.

As rock climbers, we are all responsible for protecting the rock. It is important for maintaining the beauty of the places we climb, the integrity of the routes, as well as the security of our sport. No one wants a crag to be shut down due to mistreatment. So, It's important to be careful and know what you're doing if you're placing a bolt. It not only scars the rock, but climbers trust that bolt with their lives.

While climbing "Upper Bolt Route," I saw an old, 1/4 bolt, with half a nut rusted onto a dilapidated hanger, and said to myself, "what the hell am I doing here?" I was not falling. That's what I was doing there. Many of the anchors on this wall are rusted, and some chain anchors are linked with a single wrap ring, which isn't redundant. On the whole, I think this place could use a major overhaul. Oct 27, 2014
Ethan Bridwell
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell   littlerock CA
who ever re-bolted that 2 pitch 5.10ish sport climb on the right of vd wall made the hangars look crazy cool fun climb on brand new bolts Apr 20, 2015
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
I rebolted the route it's good to go! Dec 29, 2016
JC your a boss ! Thanks for all you have done. May 28, 2018

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