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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rick Shull & Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,324 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is listed as unknown route #591 in the Mayr guide. Start in the right side of the large, shallow cave. Work up a left-facing flake, then transition right into another left-facing flake. Get up high under the roof and work out onto the face. Continue up the steep headwall on delicate aggregate. Finish on the big ramp at chain anchors. Although the roof is the crux, the lower section is quite tricky and physically demanding; the upper section let’s up very little and is sustained. Rappel to descend.

Location

Right side of the big cave in the center of VD wall.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted chain anchor
alex carey
  5.10c/d
alex carey  
  5.10c/d
This definitely felt harder than Lower Bolt Route to me. Also a little beta specific for the crux. If your worried about falling at the crux, dont, bolts where perfectly places. Oct 11, 2016
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Awesome, thanks for the fresh steel. Dec 7, 2015
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
All new bolts on this route as of today. Dec 6, 2015
Eamon Doyle
Sierra Madre, CA
  5.10c/d PG13
Eamon Doyle   Sierra Madre, CA
  5.10c/d PG13
As of 1/3/2012, there were some insecure sandstone flakes between the 3rd and 4th bolt. They were capable of supporting weight vertically, but I recommend being very careful that you not pull out on them. Also, you belayer might consider a helmet. Jan 4, 2012