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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FollowerÂ’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Olsen and Dennis Clark, 1983
Page Views: 1,554 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on the upper ledge and climb the left side of the light brown section. This line works mostly on smearing and thin edges, with the occasional pocket or protruding aggregate rock. At the 5th bolt the climb traverses up and right; the crux is passing this bolt. Continue over the ledge to chain anchors shared with Rurp Rip-off. A nice, delicate climb and fairly sustained. Rappel to descend.

Location

On the short slab to the left of the main wall.

Protection

7 bolts, bolted chain anchor
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Old loose anchors and loose bolts. Very fun climb, be careful if you decide to do it. Jan 25, 2016
Be good at high stepping and crimping. Most the bolts on this route need to be replaced and should not be considered safe for repeated falls. Oct 2, 2014
Petr
  5.9
Petr  
  5.9
Old anchor with a bunch of old hardware including a master lock connecting chain to bolt. Mar 17, 2014
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
FA: 1983 - Richard Olsen and Dennis Clark. Apr 28, 2012