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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,509 total, 33/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the arête past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from arête to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Route (5.8).

Protection

9 bolts, bolted chain anchor
alex carey
  5.9
alex carey  
  5.9
Don't let the first clip scare you, the arete is bomber for the hands. Oct 11, 2016
Ethan Bridwell 1
littlerock CA
Ethan Bridwell 1   littlerock CA
i think its a really easy first clip but you definitely have to climb to get to it, bolts are super solid, one of the best moderate climbs in the park.if you really wanted to you could top rope it by walking up a ramp to the far right of arched arched demon. Apr 20, 2015
Petr
  5.9-
Petr  
  5.9-
The arete part is really good climbing.
First bolt doesn't seem to be any higher than usual and you have great hands. I would call it 5.7 moves up until right before clipping the 3rd bolt. There it felt little cruxy.
Fun route with good variety of climbing! Really enjoyed it.
And has all new hardware :-) Mar 17, 2014
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
 
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
 
Do not fall on the crux; you will land on the ledge. First clip didn't bother me; just the crux! Took a lead fall and sprained my ankle and had to hike out on it-not fun. Oct 3, 2013
May deserve a PG13 rating for the first bolt. We onsight most 5.9 sport and were comfortable with the first clip. Just beware if you sometimes struggle with 5.9 that the first clip will be scary.

Very fun moves getting to and through the roof/overlap (also very beta specific). Face climbing on the aggregate above was fun, with the conglom rocks being more solid than they look. May 6, 2013
Eamon Doyle
Sierra Madre, CA
  5.9 R
Eamon Doyle   Sierra Madre, CA
  5.9 R
As of 1/3/2012, I recommend bringing a stick clip for the first clip if you aren't solid on 5.9+ climbs. The clip is just high enough that a spot isn't all that helpful and the fall is onto uneven rock. Jan 3, 2012