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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Follower’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,133 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Tree Corner gets its name from the fact that it climbs the obvious corner, past a large tree to the right of the chimney. It is a fun climb that protects well but feels harder than the listed grade. I’d call the first pitch 5.9.

P1 - At the corner where the main wall curves toward an alcove, start in a crack and work out onto the face/arête. Continue up the face and work into the chimney on the right. Exit the chimney at its high point, continuing up the face to another crack that ends atop the pillar at a chain anchor, shared with Slot Machine. For added protection you can place a #2 Camelot in the crack before the first bolt, and another #2 in the upper crack. 8 bolts, 90’

P2 – From the anchor, transition left into a groove (the continuation of the slot that defines Slot Machine) that heads up to the right. Take the slanting crack up and left to the top of the wall, ending at chain anchors. This upper crack is flaring but can take pro in spots, but this pitch is easy and protected well enough by the bolts. 3 Bolts, 70’ Either rappel in two pitches or drag a second rope to rappel all the way to the ground.

Location

Left side of VD wall, on the corner between the main wall and the alcove.

Protection

11 bolts, bolted chain anchors
Jeremy Byrne
oak hills CA
 
Jeremy Byrne   oak hills CA
 
great climb! The second pitch has very old rusty bolts but some trad gear will make it much safer. There is also a good spot to back up the second anchor with a #2 cam. Apr 2, 2016
Ethan Bridwell 1
littlerock CA
  5.9
Ethan Bridwell 1   littlerock CA
  5.9
first pitch is well protected and fun but the second is... more adventurous you can do it without any trad gear whatsoever the top anchor on the 2ed pitch is absolutely funky Apr 20, 2015
Petr
  5.8
Petr  
  5.8
First pitch seemed pretty straight forward to us with the crux at the upper part coming of the left hand flake. I would call those the only 5.8 moves.
Didn't feel the need to put any gear in as all the harder climbing was protected and "runouts" were easy climbing. Where you could put in a piece you usually are within 3 feet of a bolt so might as well go for it IMO.
Upper part of pitch 2 was a different story for us! Some committing moves with real smearing with crux before bolt #3 which is a bit far if you aren't placing gear. I did fit a #3 camalot. The whole crack was a bit more heady than the first pitch or the whole Slot machine, which if this is 5.8 (probably) would seem as 5.6
This was the meat of the whole climb for me!
Good fun with "unique" bolts and funky old anchor. Mar 17, 2014
Both my partner and I onsight most 5.9 sport climbs, and we got stuck on the slanting crack on the second pitch of this route. I would still agree with the 5.9 rating for the route, we just couldn't figure out the beta for P2! It wasn't as trivial as we thought it would be. Luckily there was no one around to laugh at us because I think we probably looked silly just sitting up there at the base of the P2 crack, staring up at this juggy 5.9 crack. A few feet above bolt 2, the climbing felt just insecure enough to be scared by the next 8-12 feet to bolt 3, especially because we were only ~20 ft off the floor of the gully you scramble up to get to the crack (possible deck fall). The climbing up to bolt 3 may have been easier as you get closer to it, we just never got far enough to find out! Mar 4, 2013
BAd
5.9
BAd  
5.9
I agree with the 5.9 rating for the first pitch. There are a few stiff moves there, and a typical 5.8 leader will be over his head. It helps to be tall, too. Still, a very fun, interesting lead. Go do it! Just be prepared for a bit of a challenge for 5.8. Mar 23, 2012