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Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Arched Demon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deceiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FollowerÂ’s Folly T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lower Bolt Route S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overhanger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reqiuem S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rupert The Bear S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rurp Rip-off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike the Punch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Corner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Bolt Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velcro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Cracks T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 983 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Take either - Over Hanger 5.9, Arched Demon 5.11c/d, or Spike the Punch 5.10d up to the anchors. Then go up from there.

Go up a hand crack and clip a bolt or skip the bolt and put a bomber #2 cam in. Then continue up and there is a place to sling a bridge between 2 holes. Then keep working up and clipping bolts then head left onto the face and clip some more bolts until you get to the anchors in a little nook.

The book shows heading up the gully and then going left to upper bolt route. It looks pretty easy, but we weren't sure about bolts/anchors so we stopped there.

If you have the So Cal Sport climbing guide, the 3 bolt anchor is right where it says 592 on the topo.

Location

Above Over Hanger 5.9, Arched Demon 5.11c/d, or Spike the Punch 5.10d.

2 raps to the ground from the 3 bolt anchor.

Protection

5 Draws and #2 yellow BD C4 and a shoulder length sling are both optional. The anchor is a 3 bolts with some tat webbing.

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