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Routes in John's Tower
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30 is the new 50 AKA Slim Pickins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Champagne and PBR T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+ |
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Corridor Crack V2-3 5+ |
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Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In the Flat Field T C2+ |
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Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jamminy Crackit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Right of Vowel Movement T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vowel Movement S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Harper, Jurkowitsch, and Mallamo ('96) |
| Page Views: | 792 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Skip Harper on Nov 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Description
Description of "It's Bloody Solid": it's a great, moderate line, although it's also a typical Vedauwoo, harsh handjammer from start to finish. You will find no lack of 'friction', so be sure to TAPE UP! You will find yourself moving back and forth in the parallel cracks within this neat line until about 20 feet from the top when a slight dogleg left necessitates some good pro. The same goes for the alternate left exit which also needs a little extra pro.
Location
This is on the east side of the Southeast Face. See the TOPO of The Southeast Face, Route #11n.
Protection
A standard rack will do, although consider taking several medium to medium-large cams (3 to 4.5) and save some for the top. Belay on gear.
Descent: either use anchors on #10 (easiest) or downclimb to the north, circling east and then southerly downslope (although the walk back to the base is a little long and fraught with slash).
Descent: either use anchors on #10 (easiest) or downclimb to the north, circling east and then southerly downslope (although the walk back to the base is a little long and fraught with slash).
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