Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof on the southeast face of John's Tower. The name is derived from the sharpness of the rock. Iron Maiden refers not to the band, but to the medieval torture device. (See the legend of sleepy hollow with Johnny Depp. An Iron Maiden is how his mom gets killed). Anyway, the moves on this route are fantastic! You start in the alcove and work your way out a 10-12' roof. As usual getting around the bulge is the hardest part. I have done Lucille, and I thought this was harder. Although Lucille is an overall much better climb. If you can do this climb, then Lucille should be no problem. While I was on IM, I couldn't help but think how incredibly similar the two climbs felt. Wear a thick shirt.
Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof about 30' climber's left of Roofin' It. In the Kelman guide, you can see a shady alcove on the corner of the southeast formation. IM is the right hand, right-arcing crack.
A hand-sized piece and a few #6 Friends are all you will need. There are no anchors on top, but you can walk off or find one of the many anchors on top and rap off.