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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Andy Johnson
Page Views: 2,119 total · 18/month
Shared By: Handsome B. Wonderful on May 16, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof on the southeast face of John's Tower. The name is derived from the sharpness of the rock. Iron Maiden refers not to the band, but to the medieval torture device. (See the legend of sleepy hollow with Johnny Depp. An Iron Maiden is how his mom gets killed). Anyway, the moves on this route are fantastic! You start in the alcove and work your way out a 10-12' roof. As usual getting around the bulge is the hardest part. I have done Lucille, and I thought this was harder. Although Lucille is an overall much better climb. If you can do this climb, then Lucille should be no problem. While I was on IM, I couldn't help but think how incredibly similar the two climbs felt. Wear a thick shirt.

Location

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof about 30' climber's left of Roofin' It. In the Kelman guide, you can see a shady alcove on the corner of the southeast formation. IM is the right hand, right-arcing crack.

Protection

A hand-sized piece and a few #6 Friends are all you will need. There are no anchors on top, but you can walk off or find one of the many anchors on top and rap off.

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Patrick Kingsbury  
  5.12-
youtube.com/watch?v=mi6F8Ng…

Awesome route!!! Apr 26, 2012
Shanti
 
Shanti  
 
Hey Andy, super cool route! The pivot was quite a bloody battle for me. AWESOME!!! Jun 6, 2011
OW Poser  
 
Very nice Andy....a great route!!!!! Jun 26, 2008
Wade, you'll like the name even more after you get on the route. It has cool moves, but super sharp rock. It feels like thousands of nails digging into your chest and back. The perfect route for a true Vedauwoo pain-o-phile. Jun 16, 2008
I liked the route name better when I was thinkin bout the band. Bummer, Iron Maiden used to rock! I remember scopin those roof routes a while back and thinking they looked cool. Glad it finally has been done. Jun 9, 2008