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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Skip Harper, 1996
Page Views: 135 total · 1/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This great route is steep and sustained with the crux located about halfway up. It climbs a crack that splits into two parallel cracks in a large corner (hard to explain, you'll see when you get there). It is possible to climb the left facing dihedral/ramp to the left at 5.10a (Route name: On the Side) and set up a top rope for this route.

Location

This route is located on the southeast face of John's Tower approximately in the center of the wall. Steppin' Out is a good first pitch to get to the start of this route which is located on a large ledge behind two huge boulders. To descend you can either down climb to the southwest towards Little John's Tower or you can rap back to the start of Double Dippin'. From the base of the route, walk southwest around the huge boulders and then traverse back east below the boulders to a left facing dihedral and down climb the crack (this downclimb is probably 5.5 or 5.6).

Protection

Finger to hand size cams, and a couple large hexes will protect the first 10' perfectly but are not necessary.

Photos

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bart cubrich 1
  5.10c
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10c
There is a bong on this thing that looks safe to clip, so keep an eye out for it to save wasting a placement. Jul 18, 2014
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
This is a really cool route in a neat location, high up on John's Tower in a little bowl formed by massive boulders. A nice, steep, square corner with clever gear at the start that slowly gets more difficult until kind of a 'faith' crux about 30 feet up. Followed by about 30 feet of hero climbing with nice dual cracks. Super fun. Aug 30, 2010

More About Double Dippin'

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