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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Brink, Paul Heyliger
Page Views: 916 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jim Brink on Sep 14, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The first pitch is about 11a and the second about 12a with two very hard moves right off the belay.

The first pitch has multiple 10d/11a cruxes.

Location

This is 30 feet right of Big House on John's Tower. A 60 meter rope needed for rappel from the second belay.

Protection

One or two cams about 1/2 inch would be useful in a horizontal seam. The rest is sport. There are chain anchors on both belay stations.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Great route! I found a green Alien (blue Metolius) was all you need to protect this route perfectly. Thanks for the addition, the second pitch looks awesome too! Aug 8, 2016
Jim Brink  
 
So glad you guys climbed this route. I know of only one send other than my two. I can't explain the PG-13 except that I must have hit the wrong button. It is corrected. Aug 2, 2016
Steve Murphy
Loveland, CO
5.10c
Steve Murphy   Loveland, CO
5.10c
A nice slab route, just enough bolts, with fun movements. Stay close to the bolt line to keep it at 10c or so (first pitch). Staying right of the last bolt (before the first anchor) will up it to Jim Brink's suggested 11a. Didn't really see anything that would justify a PG rating unless perhaps you neglect to bring a piece as Jim recommends. All just my opinion, of course. Jul 22, 2016