Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Pete Takeda and Jen Hanft
Page Views: 957 total · 8/month
Shared By: P Takeda on Jul 17, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Thin crux seam for first 20 feet with flared hand, tips. and edges lead to hand jam and good horizontal. Above is a hard fist/ow bulge leading to squeeze and finally a fixed belay. The route is lichen crusted down low--should clean up well--might get easier.

Location

Married On Morphine takes a slightly left leaning seam and fist/ow crack on the right side of John's Wall--maybe 200 feet roughly west (climber's right) of Burning Man.

On the approach, go right after crossing the fence. See picture.

Protection

One key fixed micro-wired. A #00 cam, some RPs and a #2 Camalot for down low. Hand/fist sized gear for the upper crack. Two #4 Camalots are nice for the upper bit.

Photos

JNE
JNE  
Nice work, Pete! Jul 18, 2009
Looks good, Pete, nice job. Something else to add to the list.... Jul 18, 2009