GPS: 41.197, -105.387 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,898 total · 156/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 10, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

Expect trad climbing. Great cracks of all difficulties from 5.6 to 5.12. Big House and Becker are good mellow routes. Check out the routes to the left in the corridor for good 5.10 - 5.11cracks. The OW that you see is Burning Man-5.11, good fist stacks to a couple of easy roofs. Next finger to hands crack is Yellow Belly-5.10C, good climg to cold shuts, beyond from ledge is 5.9 OW. Around the corner on the prow is a fun 5.10d that goes out a couple bulges.

Per Cory N: John's Tower can be seen as 2 distinct crags:

1. North-facing: Jamminy Crackit through Champagne and PBR.

2. South-facing: Scarlet Begonias through It's Bloody Solid.

When you approach John's Tower, you'll be on the North-facing side. The trail that takes you by the barbed wire fence will drop you right around Married on Morphine and a sport route called Vowel Movement.

Heading to the right from there will bring you in between John's Tower and Little John's Tower. You'll spot a some rampy rocks on your left that bring you up onto a ledge where you'll find the start of the South-facing side.

Heading to the left you pass all of the sweet sweet shady cracks that you came here for. All the way left past Jamminy Crackit, you'll find a gully that descends down to the far right of the South-facing side near the base of It's Bloody Solid.

Location

Per Petsfed 00: starting from the Blair Picnic Ground, head north on Blair-Wallis Road to FSR 707. Follow 707 east to 707A and hang a right. After a little while, hang another right on 707AF. Follow that road to a parking area that's popular with gun- and Coors-enthusiasts. Park here, and walk south towards the formation. Little John's Tower is off to the west of John's Tower proper.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at John's Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Taco Filling
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
Becker
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Big House
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
It's Bloody Solid
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 29
Vowel Movement
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Fun House
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Yellow Belly
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
30 is the new 50 AKA Slim Pickins
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Ultra Violets
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Burning Man
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
House of Cards
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 16
Jamminy Crackit
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Iron Cross
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
Married On Morphine
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Taco Filling
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Becker
 64
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Big House
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
It's Bloody Solid
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Vowel Movement
 29
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Fun House
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yellow Belly
 57
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
30 is the new 50 AKA Slim P…
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ultra Violets
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Burning Man
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
House of Cards
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Jamminy Crackit
 16
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Iron Cross
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Married On Morphine
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in John's Tower »

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