Mountain Project Logo

Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Wade Griffith, Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,836 total, 11/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Aug 30, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route is located in the corridor left of Burning Man. Hands and fingers lead up through the overhanging belly that is followed by a tricky slot with a fixed pin. Cold shuts are located on the first ledge or you can proceed up the OW above that is 5.9 awkward munge to a second rap anchor.


Small cams up to some hands sizes for the initial crack. A quickdraw is useful for a fixed pin in the slot. Bring some big gear for the O.W. above.


- No Photos -
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
Interesting and varied. And clean. I wish there were more climbs like this at Blair. I also wish I had a million dollars. Sep 5, 2016
Laramie, WY
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
Great route. The first pitch has a cold shut anchor, so I avoided the second pitch. Does it still count? Aug 3, 2016
Moritz B.
Moritz B.  
The new guidebook gives the upper section an 11b rating. Oct 12, 2015
Yeah, I admit. The wide bit at the end may have been rated old school Vedauwoo. Remember it being pretty mungy and thought it would be easier when it cleaned up after a few ascents. Scarpelli told me once that they used to rate things low as they could without smiling. When I first met him at the base of Cupcake, I asked what it was rated. He replied it was 5.8 without a smile. Mar 19, 2013
Princess Mia
Princess Mia   Vail
Well the old guidebook says 5.10c and the new says 5.10d. All I can say it is not 5.10b, and the second pitch is awesome and may look mangy, but the climbing is not and it sure isn't 5.9 either. The going rating is 5.10-ish. Jun 29, 2012

The only thing that keeps this route from getting 4 stars is the ledge in the middle. Excellent, varied climbing on this that will test your all around skills in the mid 10 range. First pitch seemed easier than it looked (though slightly intimidating), second pitch harder than it looked. Second pitch is that 'too big to stack, too small to wing' sort of size and it is steep. Luckily there is the dihedral wall to work with, or this would be another 'big pink' sort of nightmare. You will want big pro for this pitch. Aug 30, 2010