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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 153 total, 2/month
Shared By: KateC on Sep 27, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Aka "Soup Mountain", this little sport climb is hidden on the north face of John's Tower, about 100 feet right of Becker. It is still dirty and a bit lichen-y, but it has some balancy moves and a nice base for large groups or kids.

Scramble up to the bottom of a shallow, flaring flake, and then either lay-back or jam your way up surprisingly steep rock to a big ledge. Then it's 8 feet of nice hand-crack climbing to a solid anchor on the edge of John's Tower.


Find the trail heading out of the campsite at 707AF towards the west end of the north face of John's Tower. You'll hit a barbed-wire fence quickly. Follow that to a boulder and scramble over some wood fence posts. Then hike directly to the wall in front of you, looking for a left-leaning flake covered in bolts. It's hard to miss.


6-7 bolts, with three VERY close together in the crux. Big two-bolt anchor for rapping and TRing. If you are a nervous or new leader, a red cam might make the crack at the top a little less scary.


Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
We did this on our last of 5 days in The Voo - a gorgeous day at Upper Blair with zero humans out there except us.

This makes for a good sport warmup in the area, although if you're a 5.9 trad/5.10 sport climber, it may be more effort than it's worth to unpack for this isolated climb before moving up to other Upper Blair climbs.

Though this is climb generally ascends a left-leading flake, many of the moves require handjams/balancy footwork as opposed to more traditional lieback technique, so expect a more techy route than you may actually envision from the ground. I'd recommend rapping this route, as opposed to lowering off, to avoid rope wear on the sharp face. Jul 18, 2013