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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,693 total · 15/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Aug 9, 2003 with updates from cstebbins024
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Big House is located on John's Tower. To access this wall, just locate the 8 Ball formation and park near its base (per cstebbins024 the road going to the 8 Ball is permanently closed). The parking area is totally trashed with burnt up logs and broken glass.

Big House is north-facing and is about 30' to the left of Becker. It is very apparent from a distance and appears to split the wall in half. I thought this climb was excellent! Heel and Toe rated this climb a 5.7, but I think its rating is closer to 5.8+. The climb starts in a corner which moves up to a nice hand crack through an overhang/bulge (crux). After the bulge, the climb widens to OW then chimney and finishes at a double bolt/ring belay.


Pro extra hand size to #4 Camalot, 2 bolt/ring anchors.


Jeremy Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Jeremy Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
Great route with fun stems and good jams. No way this is 5.7 (even for Vedauwoo). The crux bulge is short, but nevertheless it's strenuous and at least 5.8 and probably 5.9 (unless you've either got big hands or are unusually comfortable with fist jams). Protects well. Really satisfying. Aug 12, 2007
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
A good route, #4 Friend is the largest piece I used.
The rating in Kelman's book seems fair at 5.8. Aug 14, 2007
Laramie, Wyoming
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
It does seem pretty stout for 5.7. I would rate it 5.8 through the short crux. I didn't find it to be nearly as asthetic as Baobab Tree, but an ok climb nonetheless. Use caution at the top around the chockstones, they will rain down pebbles on your belayer. May 19, 2009
Just did it last night and the lowermost chockstone split in half and I cleaned it so it might not rain down so many pebbles and rocks. Jul 22, 2009
R Sather
Seems consistent with other 5.7s at the Voo. Sep 23, 2014

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