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Routes in John's Tower

? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+
Corridor Crack V2-3 5+
Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Flat Field T C2+
Iron Cross T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jamminy Crackit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vowel Movement S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Skip Harper, et al.
Page Views: 1,455 total · 15/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 10, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a great route that doesn't see much traffic. For the grade at Vedauwoo, it is very friendly.

JC is located on the east end/buttress of John's Tower. This beautiful crack line navigates through steep territory. The line is obvious, with a steep, twin crack start with big hands. This transitions to thin hands with some good hand pods in steep, leaning bulge. This narrows down to fingers and then you pull a nice, fun roof that fortunately gives you a lot to work with.

Pull onto a ledge and totally switch gears. The book says that there are bolts (i.e. plural) on the face above you, but there was only one. You can tinker in some small, not so great stoppers, but be careful as the crux is encountered before you clip the bolt about 10 feet off the ledge. It is really good face climbing here but somewhat serious. There is a bolted anchor not too far above.

From the ledge, supposedly there is a bolted variation that goes out left (I didn't see it). Also, you can do a classic, Vedauwoo-looking crack traverse to the right and then climb an overhanging corner to escape. The traverse looks pretty wild, but it has perfect gear.

Location

If approaching John's Tower from north, it is on the far left (east) side. You can't miss it - it is an overhanging crack/corner that is begging to be climbed.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot, maybe a couple extra in the thin hands to hands range. It has a bolted anchor at top. We had a 70m, which had plenty left over. Be careful though as the ground kind of slopes/ledges down away from the base.

Photos

Greg Cameron
  5.10d
Greg Cameron  
  5.10d
Fun climb, but about 1000 times easier than Burning Man, which is somehow rated easier. Aug 12, 2013
slim

 
slim    
 
Definitely, although they are quite different. Aug 12, 2013
One thousand times easier than Burning Man? While possibly 'somewhat' comparable in difficulty, 'Jamminy' offers far more challenge than offwidth. At any rate, the bolts on the top face were there. I put them in. Apparently there's been some rather surreptitious chopping going on. I apologize for this and will get up there and replace them. In the meantime, please follow the sensible comments above by Slim. Thanks for letting us know. Nov 6, 2014
thomas.w
Denver, CO
  5.11b
thomas.w   Denver, CO
  5.11b
This is a stellar climb and definitely worth getting on.... We followed it up with Spectreman, and the grade felt fine in comparison. Jun 23, 2015
Greg Cameron
  5.10d
Greg Cameron  
  5.10d
My last comment was geared more toward the fact that Burning Man is definitely underrated, although I would stick by my 5.10d rating for this one. Mar 23, 2017
A-W
A-W  
Really fun, athletic hands. Take care with the last couple of pieces you place at the final bulge before the ledge... you can get some pretty awful rope drag for the slab finish. All bolts were there and seemed fine. Metolius fat rap hangers on top. Aug 28, 2017
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.11a
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.11a
Amazing line! Doubles from #0.3-#2, 1 #3, 1 #4, and a set of offset nuts felt good. The face moves to get to the bolt from the ledge are a bit spicy, as you're going to hit the ledge if you come off before the clip. A #4 (Black) DMM Offset Aluminum placed above the ledge should keep you from tumbling all way down the lower face, or better yet don't fall. Extending the gear at the bulge before the ledge was key. Jul 22, 2018

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