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It's Bloody Solid

5.8, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Harper, Jurkowitsch, and Mallamo ('96)
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Blair (overview) > Upper Blair > John's Tower
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Description of "It's Bloody Solid": it's a great, moderate line, although it's also a typical Vedauwoo, harsh handjammer from start to finish. You will find no lack of 'friction', so be sure to TAPE UP! You will find yourself moving back and forth in the parallel cracks within this neat line until about 20 feet from the top when a slight dogleg left necessitates some good pro. The same goes for the alternate left exit which also needs a little extra pro.

Location

This is on the east side of the Southeast Face. See the TOPO of The Southeast Face, Route #11n.

Protection

A standard rack will do, although consider taking several medium to medium-large cams (3 to 4.5) and save some for the top. Belay on gear.

Descent: either use anchors on #10 (easiest) or downclimb to the north, circling east and then southerly downslope (although the walk back to the base is a little long and fraught with slash).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tressa Mallamo is following the route, appropriately taped and wearing long tights/pants to avoid the moderate meatgrinder.  If you don't use both these (tape and long pants), you will definitely be forced to understand where the name of the climb came from.
[Hide Photo] Tressa Mallamo is following the route, appropriately taped and wearing long tights/pants to avoid the moderate meatgrinder. If you don't use both these (tape and long pants), you will definitely b…