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Routes in 3. The Mid Section
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Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coloring Book (& Variation) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.02081, -71.25632 |
| FA: | Kurt and Karen Moffat Winkler Oct. 1984 |
| Page Views: | 720 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
While nominally rated 5.4, this is most definitely NOT for the neophyte 5.4-5.5 leader! This is ESPECIALLY true, if you continue the natural line above the belay! (The route steps right into the belay, and then P2 CONTINUES RIGHT out of the belay. Starting pitch2 back on the left, the "natural line" commences with a quite-thin move! )
Those looking for better protected, easy climbs should think about Dead Easy (5.1 - 5.2 G/PG), Livin' Easy (5.4-5.5 PG / with 5.3 PG-13) , or P1 of Rubberneck (5.5 G / 5.3 PG/R) instead.
Kurt was climbing friction exceedingly well in the 1980's ( he still does!) as demonstrated by "True Colors" and "Sir Bor's Dream (on Table Mt.)
Usually wet with run-off until late spring or summer.
START: From the toe, hike up to the brown slab area and then scramble, or climb belayed (Class 3-4) to the "launching Ledge" (see separate description). Scramble (or climb belayed) 5-6 ft up to the next highest ledge system, and then traverse left 25-30 ft to a fixed piton. (2014 photo; 2025 pin may be gone.)
Pitch 1 - From the belay-stance piton, Climb straight up the lightly colored orange rock just left of a brown streak. About 40 ft above the piton a hole, just left of a curving flake, takes a Green Camalot. Towards the top, if one moves left, out of the orange rock to darker rock, some gear might be placed.
Step a few feet right to the belay at a stance just below the right-hand of two crescent-shaped cracks. (single 3/8" S.S. bolt and new (2014) piton) 130-140 ft 5.4-5.5 R/X There is ancient remnant of one of Kurt's two original belay pitons still visible. [Same belay as for True Colors]
P2 - Move out RIGHT and finish on P2 of True Colors. 130-150 ft 5.3 bring a wire brush.
Rap from the trees with 2 ropes. Or, from the belay at the end of P1, climb down and right a few feet to the new anchor for L'Anniversaire. Rap from there with 2 ropes. ( A single 70 meter JUST makes it to the "launch Ledge".
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