Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1st Recorded R Hall & S Matz Aug 2014|
|Page Views:||689 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Placements on P1 might be a bit tricky for the new trad leader, but P2's placements are much easier to see and place.
The companion route to "Dead Easy", this route is truly "Living Easy": Clean rock, and good pro that is easy to place on P2. N.F.W. this could have been a FA, but no place was it recorded. If you are on the "launch ledge" it's an easy climb over to the tree island and pitch 2, the better of the two pitches by far!
P1 - START A few feet right of the very toe of the slab, and a few feet left of the right edge. Climb up, with gear placements possible on the flakes and cracks to the right. At about 75 ft, pass by the start of Dead Easy (the triple-trunked oak to your right) and continue up the slab to the left end of the tree island. Walk a few feet right to a maple tree with rap slings. 150 ft 5.4 [NOTE that you have "crossed" Dead Easy. ]
P2 - Make the move up just to the left of the tree, then up the slab (gear low on a right facing flake, then 1 bolt) headed for the corner/flake that arches left. Climb up this to near the top (gear) and then step over it to the clean, golden slab above. Follow this up ( bolt on left, then another higher up) to a double-bolt anchor about 40 ft below the top 115 ft 5.5 PG ; ....or, continue on brushed footholds in the lichen and into the trees and belay/rap anchor on tree. [Just before the brushed footholds there is a gear placement on the right, "behind" a small bulge-flake. Save a 0.5 (purple) Camalot-sized for this. ] 150 ft 5.5 PG
Descent - Rap (DO NOT LOWER ! 70m won't reach! ) off from the bolted anchor with single 70m rope [tie knots!] , then off the maple tree to the ground. NOTE from trees at the top you need 2 ropes (You may THINK your single 70m might make it from the trees back to the belay ledge, but you'd be wrong!)