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Routes in 3. The Mid Section

Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Coloring Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st Recorded R Hall & S Matz Aug 2014
Page Views: 159 total, 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

See Route Photo posted to the climb "Dead Easy". This climb starts just left of Dead Easy and crosses it to finish to the right of Dead Easy.

Placements on P1 might be a bit tricky for the new trad leader, but P2's placements are much easier to see and place.

The companion route to "Dead Easy", this route is truly "Living Easy": Clean rock, good pro that is easy to place, and a tree-rap anchor. N.F.W. this could have been a FA, but no place was it recorded. If you are on the "launch ledge" it's an easy climb over to the tree island and pitch 2, the better of the two pitches by far!

P1 - START A few feet right of the very toe of the slab, and a few feet left of the right edge. Climb up, with gear placements possible on the flakes and cracks to the right. At about 75 ft, pass by the start of Dead Easy (the triple-trunked oak to your right) and continue up the slab to the left end of the tree island. Walk a few feet right to a maple tree with rap slings. 150 ft 5.4 [NOTE that you have now "crossed" Dead Easy. ]

P2 - Make the move up just to the left of the tree, then up the slab (gear in a right facing flake, then 1 bolt) headed for the corner/flake that arches left. Climb up this to near the top(gear) and then step over it to the clean, golden slab above. Follow this up ( bolt on left, then another higher up) to brushed footholds in the lichen and into the trees and belay/rap anchor. [Just before the brushed footholds there is a gear placement on the right, "behind" a small bulge-flake. Save your 0.5 (purple) Camalot-sized for this. ] 140 ft 5.4-5.5 PG

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes (You may THINK your single 70m might make it, but you'd be wrong!) from the belay/anchor tree to the tree ledge, then with one rope to the ground at a sandy ledge at the level of the start of Dead Easy. A new sling was left as a rap anchor on the tree in spring 2016.

It is possible to get off with a single 70m one of the following 2 ways:
1) From the rap tree tension traverse hard right (rappeller's right) and a single 70m JUST makes it to the far left end of the Pencilneck Geek/ Rubberneck tree ledge. From here go slightly up and climber's right, then down to the tree rap of Building Steam. (You could also scramble left to the maple tree rap at the end of Liv'n Easy's P1.)

2) From the top of Liv'n Easy, walk climber's left 30-35 ft and set up a short rap to the Dead Easy anchors. From the Dead Easy anchors rap to rappeller's left to the L'Anniversaire bolted anchor. From here a 70m (but not a 60m !) JUST makes it to "Launch Ledge". Scramble/downclimb to the ground, or climb back up 30-40 ft to the end of Dead Easy/Livn' Easy P1 and the maple tree rap.
YUP...sure is easier to take 2 ropes for this one!

Protection

normal rack, esp. mid-sized cams; 3 draws for the bolts

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