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Routes in 3. The Mid Section

Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Coloring Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug 7, 1973
Page Views: 76 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 4, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Another of the Paul Ross-Cathcart climbs of AUG 7 '73. Perhaps by now Paul's belayer was wishing for a "rubber" neck?!

P1 is not "bad", but if it was as nice as P2 I'd give the whole route 3 stars.

START- 50 FT above where the main path meets the slab is a long, arching overlap. From the left end of the overlap the climb "Building Steam" climbs the first weakness, a wide, sort-of-flaring inside corner with a fixed wire nut. "Pencilneck" climbs through the arch at the second weakness, about 6 to 8 feet right of "Building Steam", and RUBBERNECK climbs through flakes 20 +/- ft further right. SEE PHOTO of this large overlap POSTED to PENCILNECK GEEK

P1- Climb up the slab any way you wish and head for the gap with several flakes about 2/3rds of the way along the overlap. (Photo) Go through these (gear, 5.4 - 5.5 +/-) and continue along the weakness to the left until reaching the tree ledge. 150+/-ft 5.4-5.5 [The FA party belayed in the "weakness" above the overlap. ]

P2- Move back right out of the trees, make a step up to a natural thread (photo), then face climb (5.6 PG/R, Var) up right-ish to a small flake with good gear ( small cams). Step right, then up face (5.6 R, crux) to a hidden stance. Step back left and up to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.6 R [Note: Of course, there's no guarantee that this was the exact route of F.A., but it's nice climbing and fits the grade.]

Variation- Move left, then back right on a sort-of inverted "L" flake. This avoids the first 5.6 face.

Descent- If not doing P3, rap, or lower, from the anchor to the tree island. Here, rap from the "Making Steam" rap tree, which is a dozen or so feet down in the island.
With two ropes from the double bolt anchor it is possible to reach the P1 anchor of Littoral Zone, then 2 ropes to the ground. This "avoids the tree ledge.

P3 - Up easy, but somewhat mossy slab to the top. 100 +/- ft 5.3-5.4 Rap with 2 ropes.

Protection

Modern rack with some small TCU's

Photos

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