Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Karen Moffat Winkler and Kurt Winkler
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

According to the custom used by Ed Webster in his guidebook, Karen would have led the crux pitch on this climb, as she is listed first. That would put this climb a "New Hampshire rarity" in that the FA was led by a woman, and means that Rainbow has TWO climbs whose FA was led by a woman. (The other is "Crazy Woman Driver" on the Perfect Wave Slab)

P1 - Start, as Karen and Kurt did, at the "launch Ledge". Climb straight up the bright orange streak. Step a bit right to the belay, a new 3/8" bolt and a new (2014) piton [The remnant of one of the original pitons can be seen about a foot above the new one.] This is the same belay as described for Bruin 130 ft 5.7 R/X

P2 - Step right (Var.) and climb to the trees. 150 +/- ft 5.3 +/-

Variation for P2 - Step several feet LEFT from the belay (left of the smaller curved crack) and continue the "natural, straight up" line of Bruin. 5.7-5.8R (crux is the first few moves)

Descent- Rap from the trees with two ropes. Or, from the end of P1, climb down and over a few feet to the new double-bolt anchor of L'Anniversaire and rap with 2 ropes ( or a single 70 meter JUST gets back to the Launch Ledge)

Protection

None, although one can deviate a bit at the beginning of P1 and climb the corner/flake and get a medium cam in. This doesn't change the rating ( still 5.7 R/X) but does at least give the belayer an upward pull to contend with!

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