Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick & Karen Traverse Oct 2001
Page Views: 86 total · 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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This route (and its variation) is the "last" route in the mid-section. In geology the "Littoral zone" is, roughly speaking, that area of the coast between the normal high-tide mark and the "highest" mark of the ocean, e.g. in a storm (I presume) like Hurricane Sandy.

The "R" rating presupposes that you find the TriCam placement on P1...otherwise it is "R/X".

START- Just about exactly where the climber's path meets the slab.
P1- Climb up the dark bottom slab, over the overlap 30-40 feet up (pretty much the same as for "First Wave" and "Take a Giant Step") and continue up to a jutting, right-facing flake that somewhat resembles the submerged, "battering ram" prows of ancient Greek and Roman warships. Climb over this (gear) to the slab above. Continue up the slab; find the hidden pocket for a TriCam, and then over the steepening swell, [Crux 5.7 R, easiest on the right.] [Var.] and then on to the double bolt anchor not visible from below. 130 +/- ft 5.7 R (R/X if you don't find the pocket)

Variation: Below the swell, move right to a left-facing, arching flake/crack which is exactly on the boundary with the "Perfect Wave Slab", protect here and then move up and left to the double bolt belay. 5.5 PG

P2 - Not too sure where the FA-er's went. To keep to the 5.5 grade (as the pitch is supposed to be) step left from the belay and then up left-ish on fraction and stairsteps, with one 5.5-ish move off the highest "step". Above this, climb easy friction either moving left to the dbl bolt anchor of Rubberneck/Pencilneck 110 ft, 5.5 , ...or.. run out the rope straight up to the huge pine tree rap at the very top of the cliff. about 180+ ft 5.5, with much 5.2-5.4 R/X

The other possibility of the FA route for P2 is: Up and slightly right, towards the left-curving crack/flake, but moving up to the crack/flake, and then back away from it after placing protection, seemed more 5.7-ish than 5.5.


TriCams and a normal rack