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Routes in 3. The Mid Section

Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Coloring Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug. 7, 1973
Page Views: 897 total, 23/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Four Stars !? No joke. I've climbed it 10 or 20 times now (From "launch Ledge", soloing to the trees to set up solo-top-ropes) and it continues to impress with the quality and timelessness. If P2 of this climb isn't the best "first Trad Lead" in the state (if not the Northeast), then I don't know what climb could be.

According to Webster's guidebook, this is one of six (6 !) First Ascents made by Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart on Aug 7th 1973, the first exploration of Rainbow! Check out the historic photo posted by Paul!

START From the toe, walk back uphill on the path (towards the Perfect Wave area) and after about 30-40 ft cut back left towards the slab and find a multi-trunked oak tree right at the edge of the slab. Alternatively, climb/scramble to Launch Ledge and then climb the easy friction to the tree island belay at the end of P1.

P1- From the multi-trunked oak, move up and left through the "grey powder-lichen" ( holds brushed in 2014) to cleaner rock. Climb directly up, ending at the left end of the tree island. (Same island as for Livin' Easy.) Belay at the far left of the island at a clump of small trees. 80+/- ft 5.1-5.2

P2- Make the move up just left of the clump of trees, and then follow the steps and dike up. (Lots of gear potential). At the top, move up and left to the double bolt anchor. 110 +/- ft 5.1-5.2

Descend - Rap with 2 x 60 meter ropes to the START, or to "launch ledge", where you can TR both variations of Rhino Skin. It is also possible, (again with 2 x 60m ropes) and a little tension-traversing to rappeller's left, to clip the anchor on L'Anniversaire and thus TR that normally "X" climb as well.

With a single 70m rope it is possible to rap back to the tree-island belay. (This rap may also "go" with a "cut-slightly-long" 60m rope.) From the tree ledge rap to the ground off a 6-inch diameter maple tree with fixed rap rings .

Protection

Take lots, the pitch "gobbles it up". Beginning trad leaders could practice setting gear on this pitch, winner sets the most!
A gem Oct 11, 2014