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Routes in 3. The Mid Section

Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Coloring Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: chinos on May 19, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the more popular routes on the slab; most folk skip P1 and P3 and walk up to the tree belay stance at the start of P2. [R Hall added May 2017]

The route (P2) starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip an older 3/8" bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past another (new) 3/8" bolt (which replaced the old 1/4") to a 2 bolt anchor set for rapping. Pitch 3 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes, even from the 2 bolt anchor.

Alternate/Variation to P1 - see topo in photos

BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 130-140 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors. It will, however, get you to the old 3/8" single bolt...if you're into that sort of thing.

Location

The Mid Section

Protection

rack, bolts
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
I first climbed this route in the early 80's and still think it's a very fun climb. Love the scooped holds. Nov 3, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6 PG13
There's a nicer P1. Take the path down around the 2nd, slimy toe, and continue part way up the watercourse on the left, as if hiking up to the P1 belay (and/or over to Height-of-Land and Left Side). About 25-30 ft up, a ledge with two large "silver" birches marks this alternate START.

Climb about 80 ft, 5.2-5.5 (See topo and photo) A dike-line of small pockets on the right provides possible gear placements, but it's pretty run out. BUT, no more than the original P1. Oct 24, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6 PG13
If it wasn't for the somewhat out-of-character quality of the original P1, (5.3-5.4 R/X, with less than stellar rock quality at some of the protection points) this climb would get more stars, the 2nd pitch is really nice. If you only want to do P2, you can reach the belay tree by the path used to access Height-of-Land and Left Side area(s). [See 'getting there' in those areas.] Nov 1, 2013