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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 550 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This wandering line tackles the center of the roofed wall. The first two pitches courses a line through great rock with the second pitch offering amazing position traversing out the roof.

Pitch 1. Start in a sunken corner that goes over a bulge. Continue up a splitter corner for 20', then at the apex of the corner traverse slightly right and up to the first bolt. From here, weave your way up and left up a few tricky spots of delicate face climbing. The upper portion is protected by small to medium-sized gear. 15' below the anchors at a stance in a shallow corner, reach high and left to a good hold to go out and around the dirty corner immediately above you, (130') 5.10+.

Pitch 2. From the belay, head straight up to a bolt at the roof. From here, traverse out right over the lip of the roof past a bolts. Fun movement on easier terrain gets you to a belay ledge with anchors, (100') 5.9+.

Either rappel from here barely making it down with a single 70m or traverse right to finish on the last pitch of Denouement.

Location

This route goes up the center of the inset wall created by the large, left-arching roof. It is in-between Coxswain and Denouement.

Protection

Doubles from small to #1, singles from #1-#3, lots of shoulder length slings, and nuts.

Photos

Andrew Park
Grand Junction
  5.10+
Andrew Park   Grand Junction
  5.10+
Easily a classic route that is sporty for Unaweep. Did the last pitch of Denouement, which we did an additional roped traverse on loose rock to the right (by the tree) on the top of pitch 2 to get to the start of the route. Gear beta is solid. However, next time I would bring 8 draws and 6 alpines which would be better, since there were more bolts than I expected, especially on the last pitch of Denouement. Jan 16, 2018

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