All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaw… > Mother's Buttress > Middle Mother's
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||550 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Zacher on Sep 28, 2014|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis wandering line tackles the center of the roofed wall. The first two pitches courses a line through great rock with the second pitch offering amazing position traversing out the roof.
Pitch 1. Start in a sunken corner that goes over a bulge. Continue up a splitter corner for 20', then at the apex of the corner traverse slightly right and up to the first bolt. From here, weave your way up and left up a few tricky spots of delicate face climbing. The upper portion is protected by small to medium-sized gear. 15' below the anchors at a stance in a shallow corner, reach high and left to a good hold to go out and around the dirty corner immediately above you, (130') 5.10+.
Pitch 2. From the belay, head straight up to a bolt at the roof. From here, traverse out right over the lip of the roof past a bolts. Fun movement on easier terrain gets you to a belay ledge with anchors, (100') 5.9+.
Either rappel from here barely making it down with a single 70m or traverse right to finish on the last pitch of Denouement.