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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 375 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jesse Zacher, Nick Sandstrom
Page Views: 516 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Description [Edit]

This varied route tackles the steep wall to the right of the giant obvious roof that makes up the far right of Middle Mothers.

Pitch 1: (5.9) climb up mixed bolts and gear for a great casual pitch that should not be missed. Keep to the arete and end at obvious anchors at a ledge. Bring a few finger and smaller sizes to supplement the bolts, 70'.

Pitch 2: (5.11-) from the belay, traverse dead left through a few bolts over some great exposure and awesome moves through a shallow vein. Gain a crack system for 30'. Follow the bolts around further left up the tan granite and to a belay ledge and anchors, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 3: (5.10) climb the slab past a few bolts to a large ledge. Head up past knobby and chickenheaded features. Look for the large pinyon tree, and trend towards it. The anchors are down and right of the tree, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 4: (5.11-) this is the second classic pitch of the route. Clip a bolt and gain an obvious ledge. From here, clip another high bolt and make a challenging move. Use a mixture of bolts and gear as you climb at the contact zone between the pegmatite and polished, bomber granite. Trend towards a short roof and make a few strenuous moves over the roof to easier ground, 100'.

The route is 30' or so shy of topping out. The rock degrades after the last pitch anchors.

Location [Edit]

When viewing the far right of Middle Mothers, look for the large, left-arcing roof that is hard to miss. Denouement begins just right of the roof's origin. The bolts of the first pitch arete will be obvious.

Do a double rap from the top to the pitch 3 anchors. Do a single rap to top of the pitch 2 anchors. Do a double rap to the ground.

Protection [Edit]

Doubles from small to #1 Camalot, one #2 Camalot, nuts, runners, and two ropes.

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