All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaw… > Mother's Buttress > Middle Mother's
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Middle Mother's
|Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 375 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jesse Zacher, Nick Sandstrom|
|Page Views:||463 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2014|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis varied route tackles the steep wall to the right of the giant obvious roof that makes up the far right of Middle Mothers.
Pitch 1: (5.9) climb up mixed bolts and gear for a great casual pitch that should not be missed. Keep to the arete and end at obvious anchors at a ledge. Bring a few finger and smaller sizes to supplement the bolts, 70'.
Pitch 2: (5.11-) from the belay, traverse dead left through a few bolts over some great exposure and awesome moves through a shallow vein. Gain a crack system for 30'. Follow the bolts around further left up the tan granite and to a belay ledge and anchors, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.
Pitch 3: (5.10) climb the slab past a few bolts to a large ledge. Head up past knobby and chickenheaded features. Look for the large pinyon tree, and trend towards it. The anchors are down and right of the tree, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.
Pitch 4: (5.11-) this is the second classic pitch of the route. Clip a bolt and gain an obvious ledge. From here, clip another high bolt and make a challenging move. Use a mixture of bolts and gear as you climb at the contact zone between the pegmatite and polished, bomber granite. Trend towards a short roof and make a few strenuous moves over the roof to easier ground, 100'.
The route is 30' or so shy of topping out. The rock degrades after the last pitch anchors.
LocationWhen viewing the far right of Middle Mothers, look for the large, left-arcing roof that is hard to miss. Denouement begins just right of the roof's origin. The bolts of the first pitch arete will be obvious.
Do a double rap from the top to the pitch 3 anchors. Do a single rap to top of the pitch 2 anchors. Do a double rap to the ground.