Type: Trad, Sport, 375 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jesse Zacher, Nick Sandstrom
Page Views: 586 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This varied route tackles the steep wall to the right of the giant obvious roof that makes up the far right of Middle Mothers.

Pitch 1: (5.9) climb up mixed bolts and gear for a great casual pitch that should not be missed. Keep to the arete and end at obvious anchors at a ledge. Bring a few finger and smaller sizes to supplement the bolts, 70'.

Pitch 2: (5.11-) from the belay, traverse dead left through a few bolts over some great exposure and awesome moves through a shallow vein. Gain a crack system for 30'. Follow the bolts around further left up the tan granite and to a belay ledge and anchors, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 3: (5.10) climb the slab past a few bolts to a large ledge. Head up past knobby and chickenheaded features. Look for the large pinyon tree, and trend towards it. The anchors are down and right of the tree, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 4: (5.11-) this is the second classic pitch of the route. Clip a bolt and gain an obvious ledge. From here, clip another high bolt and make a challenging move. Use a mixture of bolts and gear as you climb at the contact zone between the pegmatite and polished, bomber granite. Trend towards a short roof and make a few strenuous moves over the roof to easier ground, 100'.

The route is 30' or so shy of topping out. The rock degrades after the last pitch anchors.

Location

When viewing the far right of Middle Mothers, look for the large, left-arcing roof that is hard to miss. Denouement begins just right of the roof's origin. The bolts of the first pitch arete will be obvious.

Do a double rap from the top to the pitch 3 anchors. Do a single rap to top of the pitch 2 anchors. Do a double rap to the ground.

Protection

Doubles from small to #1 Camalot, one #2 Camalot, nuts, runners, and two ropes.

Photos

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