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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: KC Baum and Don West
Page Views: 592 total, 5/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1 - Start by climbing discontinuous cracks up to below a 3 foot roof. Pull the roof using a combination of fingers, hands, and stems. Past the roof, continue up a finger and hand (160 feet). Belay on ledge with bolted anchor. (5.11).

Pitch 2 - Continue up a right-facing corner/dihedral with fingers/hands to a ledge (100 feet). Belay off gear. (5.10).

Pitch 3 - Follow the dihedral up to an arete with a finger and hand crack. Take this to the top by a pine tree (140 feet). Belay from bolted anchor. (5.9).

Descent - From the top anchor, make 3 double rope raps.

Location

The route starts in a small alcove. Look for the 3 foot roof above. There is also a small pocket on the face about 15 feet up the route.

Protection

Small to medium nuts. Double set of cams to 3".

Photos

Alex Garhart  
 
Climbed the 1st pitch of this again today and it is awesome. The 1st 25 feet is a bit heads up but there is good pro available. Fantastic route that gives you just what you need when you need it. Oct 21, 2012