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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade III
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route is a finishing pitch high on Middle Mother's Buttress: see Location.

The main attraction to this climb is a short steep hand and finger crack just right of a dihedral. When viewing Middle Mother's head on, this crack is around the corner to the left of the left skyline arete.

Climb the beautiful hand and finger crack in dike rock up to good stance. Continue up a great, low-angle, hand crack that leads directly to the rappel tree atop Middle Mother's.

Location

This climb is an optional finishing pitch to either Flora Dora or Free Falling.

If approaching from Flora Dora: From the second belay, climb a short distance up the dihedral until you can step left into a finger crack that leads around a roof to the left into the main part of the climb.

If approaching from Free Falling: From just below the huge boulder lying against the wall, traverse right around the corner to a good ledge. From here, the main crack is obvious. Follow good cracks and face climbing until you gain the crack.

Protection

Nuts and cams to hand size.

Photos

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Rap station has been replaced thanks to the ASCA and WCCC. You can now rap straight down to the top of " The Ol' Hucklebuck" and then rap to the ground. Nov 7, 2010

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