Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem
Page Views: 225 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great warmup for the other routes to the right and left. A long, moderate climb with a little bit of everything on great rock.

Pull through two bolts and place some small hard to find pro. Look to the left and right as you climb up for the seams that will take a #0.4 Camalot and a blue Metolius. Gain a ledge and climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral that looks like a giant offwidth. Do not let this turn you away. The corner climbs with face and arete features with minimal OW. Pull a fun move over a roof and gain a face split with many cracks. The easiest way through is by trending right and up for 20 feet and traversing back left to the obvious ledge.

This puts you in perfect position to continue up "On Golden Pond".

Location

The route starts 10 feet right of Flora Dora and 30 feet left of Free Falling.

There is an obvious double ring rap station at the top of the pitch. Two ropes!

This also serves as the rap route for any of the climbs that continue for the second pitch. The second pitch anchors have been replaced as well.

Protection

A double set from blue metolious to #3 Camalot. One #4 and one #5 Camalot. Two draws for the beginning and lots of slings! It is a long pitch, so extend everything!

Photos