All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaw… > Mother's Buttress > Middle Mother's
The Ol' Hucklebuck
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Middle Mother's
|Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|FA:||Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem|
|Page Views:||93 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Zacher on Nov 6, 2010|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great warmup for the other routes to the right and left. A long, moderate climb with a little bit of everything on great rock.
Pull through two bolts and place some small hard to find pro. Look to the left and right as you climb up for the seams that will take a #0.4 Camalot and a blue Metolius. Gain a ledge and climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral that looks like a giant offwidth. Do not let this turn you away. The corner climbs with face and arete features with minimal OW. Pull a fun move over a roof and gain a face split with many cracks. The easiest way through is by trending right and up for 20 feet and traversing back left to the obvious ledge.
This puts you in perfect position to continue up "On Golden Pond".
LocationThe route starts 10 feet right of Flora Dora and 30 feet left of Free Falling.
There is an obvious double ring rap station at the top of the pitch. Two ropes!
This also serves as the rap route for any of the climbs that continue for the second pitch. The second pitch anchors have been replaced as well.