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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: KC Baum and Don West
Page Views: 1,170 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 24, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start on a broken up rib featured with cracks. Continue up and right as the crack peters out and clip a bolt. From here, you launch up clipping a bolt or two and making some committing moves in between small pro. The pro is good but hard to find at times. There is no one crux on the route, just a 120' of consistent, awesome Unaweep climbing. Balancy, crimpy, and tricky: it's a Unaweep classic!

This things takes two ropes or some shenanigans with a 70m.

Location

The route is in between the Jenny-Lynn's Special and Dirty Hairy. Look for the bolts 20' up on some quality granite.

Protection

QDs, doubles from green C3 - 0.75 Camalot. One red and yellow Camalot. Nuts!

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